Read next
Trending
The simple elegance of fondant potatoes
From the magazine
In 1999, a relatively unknown American chef wrote an essay in the New Yorker uncovering the secrets of restaurants. ‘Don’t Eat Before Reading This’ lifted the lid on both the underworld of professional kitchens and the mentality of chefs. In it, the writer meticulously took down ordering fish on a Monday (old), eating steak well

Also by The Spectator
How much steel does Britain produce?
From the magazine
