Organic wine is increasingly popular, in spite of the fact that few people know what the term actually means. The rules seem to be strict but variable, work differently from country to country, and are monitored by a bewildering number of autonomous organisations. Some of these allow a handful of additions, such as preservatives. But others ban certain physical processes, even if these don’t involve chemicals at all. If the word has any useful meaning, I suppose it’s something like: ‘made from vines to which almost nothing artificial has been added’, and for some people that is very important. Does it affect the taste of the wine? I’ve come to think it does, though I’d be surprised if many experts could detect, say, six organic wines out of a choice of a dozen. My sense is that organic wine has a smoother, cleaner taste, and the flavour of the fruit comes through with greater purity and intensity. Either way, all these wines are absolutely delicious and I think you’ll enjoy them very much. They’re from Vintage Roots, a Berkshire-based merchant which sells only organic wine, so they do know their stuff.
The first white is a Casablanca Winemaker’s Selection 2004, a scrumptious blend of Chardonnay, Viognier and Marsanne from Novas in Chile. This is rich, full-bodied and packed with the aromatic spice provided by the two southern Rhone grapes. It’s a very happy wine: you could enjoy it as a summer aperitif, then go on enjoying it with, say, fish, chicken, salads or even a barbecue. Not wildly cheap though worth every penny, and VR have knocked a further 10 per cent off.
I really liked the Richmond Plains Sauvignon Blanc 2005 from Nelson, New Zealand. Here I think you can actually detect on the tongue that it’s organic: the powerfully crisp, grassy, lychee-and-gooseberry flavour seems almost to jump out of the glass and on to your palate. Wonderful with food.
VR have also knocked nearly 10 per cent off the price of the fabulous Jamberoo Shiraz/Cabernet blend 2003. We served this to an Australian friend who sat at the table sipping and smiling, smiling and sipping, as the plump, smooth, dark, fruity, velvety nectar slid down his throat. Gorgeous, and reduced to £6.99.
Finally, Rioja fans will love the Palacios Duque 20044. It is slightly less oaked than some Riojas, but has an almost creamy, voluptuous taste and a satiny feel in the mouth. Wonderful with outdoor meals.
Delivery is free, and there is a sample case including three each of the wines.
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