Robin Yapp, the dentist-turned-wine merchant who founded Yapp Bros in 1969, used to scare the pants off my poor father on forays to France.
A somewhat insouciant driver, Robin would belt along in his ancient right-hand-drive estate car, foot to the floor, with his mind on other things. Every now and then, mid-anecdote, he would drift languidly into the left lane to overtake whatever French fool impeded his progress. My father, white-faced in the passenger seat, would gulp at the oncoming camions and yell ‘No, NO, back, BACK, something’s coming!’ as Robin coasted casually back to the correct side and continued his story. ‘Robin never gets scared because he can never see what’s coming,’ whimpered my father after one particularly hair-raising jaunt to the Loire.
RY’s son Jason — now in charge along with step-bro Tom Ashworth — is cut from the same cloth. After having once nearly put us both in an early grave skidding round the corniches of Corsica, he persuaded me to join him on another Gallic jolly. All went well until he lost an argument with a treacherous manhole cover in a way that threatened to scupper the whole trip. It took many hours and a forklift truck to extricate us.
All this came flooding back with my first sip of the 2019 Clos des Fées ‘Les Sorcières’ (1), a wonderful wine that Jas introduced me to on said sortie. You won’t get any info about the wine from the back label for, in typical French bloody-minded fashion, there ain’t none. Suffice to say it’s a fabulously moreish Côtes du Roussillon blend of Grenache Blanc, Vermentino, Roussanne and Macabeo. Deliciously aromatic and refreshing, it has a lift of citrus and a long dry finish. £14.95 down from £15.95.
The 2019 Domaine Guyot ‘Les Loges’ Pouilly Fumé (2) is the latest vintage of a wine the Yapps have bought every year since 1973. Classic Loire Sauvignon Blanc, it’s full of fresh cut grass and juicily rounded gooseberries with a mineral kick. You won’t find better for the price. £16.95 down from £17.95.
The 2020 Domaine La Tour Vieille ‘Les Canadells’ Collioure (3) is made by none other than the man with the forklift: Vincent Cantié. Collioure, in the deep south, is Matisse country and the scenery that famously drew the great man here is indeed bewitching, with its tiny fishing villages and steeply terraced vineyards. This blend of Grenache Blanc et Gris, Macabeo and Roussanne is similarly beguiling — herbal, savoury, slightly oxidative and deeply drinkable. £17.25 down from £18.25.
The 2017 Domaine Ferrer Ribière Carignan ‘Empreinte du Temps’ (4), made from low-yielding, pre-phylloxera rootstock, is the antithesis of supermarket vino. Deeply, darkly concentrated, herbal and spicy, it’s Roussillon through and through and shrieks of its unique Côtes Catalanes terroir. £14.75 down from £15.75.
The 2018 Domaine de Fa Fleurie Roche Guillon (5) is a glorious, grown-up Beaujolais, full of roses, strawberries and raspberries. Made by interloping Rhône royalty Antoine and Maxime Graillot, it’s ideal for substantial but carefree summer drinking. £20 down from £22.
The 2018 Agly Brothers Côtes du Roussillon Villages (6), produced by mighty Michel Chapoutier and Aussie legend Ron Laughton (he of Jasper Hill), is a bold Syrah/Grenache blend laden with intense, rich, dark, spicy fruit. It’s a massive wine and completely irresistible. £20 down from £22.
Finally, a glorious limited edition Burgundy bonus comprising one bottle each of 2013 François Gay et Fils Beaune 1er Cru ‘Les Teurons’, 2014 Paul Misset Vosne Romanée ‘Les Barreaux’ and 2017 Frédéric Magnien Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Vieilles Vignes’ in a wooden box. Grand Cru prices have rocketed but there’s still remarkable value to be had at Village and Premier Cru level, especially from superb under-the-radar estates such as these, all from fresh, early-drinking vintages. A snip at £125.
The mixed case has two bottles each of wine 1-6 and delivery, as ever, is free.
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