A delectable selection of wines from Bordeaux

Phew, we made it in one piece. Nobody was seasick, nobody fell overboard, and nobody got shot.

I’m talking, of course, of our Spectator Clays, Claret and Cognac Cruise in Thames sailing barge Will, during which 30 or so readers and a crack Spectator team blasted at clays with pump action shotguns and blunderbusses before drinking the boat dry. We even managed to see off a double magnum of Delamain Pale & Dry Cognac as Tower Bridge opened. I was so proud.

Next morning, feeling, yes, a trifle delicate, it was straight back to the vino, tasting our annual FromVineyardsDirect ‘defrocked’ claret offer. As you know, these wines come from some of the finest estates in all Bordeaux, made by the same wine-making teams that make the grands vins – using younger vines/excess fruit – with the same care and attention. I’m forbidden to name the estates, but I can hint at them…

The 2021 Saint-Émilion (1) is from a fine, incredible, gorgeous, extraordinarily able contractor, a wine estate that is roaring up the charts and whose grand vin sells for around £250 a bottle. With restrained but deliciously approachable ripe bramble fruit, soft tannins and a fine acidity, its blend of Merlot/Cab Sauv/Cab Franc hits the mark perfectly. I really like the warm cinnamon and cloves on the nose, the mouth-filling fruit and the smooth elegant tannins. As FVD’s Esme Johnstone says, ‘This chateau flirts with perfection and makes great wine at all levels.’ £21.50 down from £22.95.

I don’t want to give a sermon to you, but the 2020 Saint-Estèphe (2) is perfect Sunday lunch fare. With enticing juicy fruit on the nose backed by typical Saint-Estèphe earthiness, it’s a touch austere at first sip but the fruit soon elbows its way to the front, and by the second sip or gulp is there in spades.