If it’s Thursday, it must be Budapest. Vienna of the other week is but a memory – and a rather sketchy one at that thanks to all those Corn ’n’ Oils – now superseded in the hippocampus by our wine-soaked Spectator tour of Budapest and the vineyards of Eger and Tokaj.
We had a hoot, as always, and drank our fill of Bull’s Blood and Tokaji and although, sadly, on this occasion I failed to persuade our accompanying gang of Spectator readers as to the delights of Hotsy Totsy (Pest’s finest bar), I did manage a quick solo exploratory flit to Boutiq’Bar and the Black Swan. They both make darn fine Corn ’n’ Oils too. So much so that I rather over cooked things and I’m off them for a while and confining myself to wine, two boxes of which from Mr Wheeler awaited my return last night.
It was a fine, wide-ranging selection for sure, and it was only because Mrs Ray had, to general astonishment, taken advantage of my absence for a week on the wagon, that the boxes had remained intact. The minute I got home, though, we both got stuck in and, despite an excellent Kiwi Pinot and Puglian Primitivo, were as one regarding our final selection of six all-French classics.
The 2024 Domaine Talmard Mâcon-Uchizy (1) is Mr W.’s best-selling white, one I’ve delighted in recommending in previous vintages. Produced by Mallory Talmard (whose family has made wine in Burgundy since the 17th century) and husband Benjamin Gonçalves and son Marco, from vineyards in and around the village of Uchizy, it’s fermented with indigenous yeasts and unoaked. Fresh, clean, supple and precise with lightly honeyed peaches on nose and palate, it brought an instant smile to Mrs R. and we both agreed that it’s a cracking price for such quality. £16.50 down from £17.95.
The 2023 Collovray & Terrier Saint-Véran Réserve (2) is equally fine, produced by Christian Collovray and Jean-Luc Terrier from carefully chosen, bought-in fruit, half an hour further down the A6 from Uchizy at the southernmost point of the Mâconnais. This, too, is unoaked and is full of beautifully judged tropical fruit, citrus and acacia honey. Again, a very modest price for so classy a wine. £17.45 down from £18.95.
If Loire Valley Sauvignon rather than Chardonnay is your thing, then the 2023 Jean Pabiot & Fils, Domaine des Fines Caillottes Pouilly-Fumé (3) will hit the spot. Although boasting fresh, zingy, expressive gooseberry fruit, it’s far from over the top with a firm, dry almost mineral finish keeping any exuberance in check. Mrs Ray is ordering some for Book Club. £18.45 down from £19.95.
The 2024 Nautic Rosé (4) is deliciously, disarmingly, gratifyingly uncomplicated. A half and half blend of Grenache and Cinsault from the Sumeire family – Provençal vignerons for almost 800 years – it’s soft, succulent and fruity. I can’t think of a better priced, more easy-going summer vin de soif. £11.45 down from £12.95.
I can’t think of a better priced, more easy-going summer vin de soif
The 2023 Canet Rôtie (5) is an absolute beauty. Made by Floris and Victoria Lemstra at Ch. Canet in Minervois, it’s a blend of (red) Syrah and (white) Viognier and a Côte Rotie in all but name (and price). It’s rich and robust with ripe, earthy dark fruit and yet delicate and elegant too, with freshness and finesse on the finish. I love this wine, and I love that it’s half what you would pay for bona fide Côte Rotie. £16.45 down from £17.95.
Finally, the 2010 Cardus de la Cardonne, Cuvée Grande Réserve (6), an almost perfect, fully mature claret from a 10/10 vintage. An equal blend of Cab Sauv and Merlot from the gravel, limestone and clay soil of Ch. La Cardonne – previously owned by the Rothschilds of Ch. Lafite and now in the hands of Andrew McInnes and winemaker Magali Guyon, former winemaker of Ch. Lynch-Bages – it’s classic fare. We’re talking heritage and pedigree here and this is a steal at a shade under twenty quid – laden with dried hedgerow fruit, soft, mellow, spicy and with the longest of finishes. £19.95 down from £21.95.
The mixed case contains two bottles of each wine and delivery, as ever, is free.
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To find out more about our Winemaker Lunches, Masterclasses and Wine Tours, visit spectator.co.uk/tastings.
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