Each Christmas, The Spectator invites a well-known Westminster personality to contribute a special recipe. This year, we are delighted to offer a delicious recipe from Veronica Crook, otherwise known as the Rees-Mogg family nanny. Enjoy!
Every parent (and nanny) knows that Christmas day is both the most exciting day of the year for little ones, but also one of the most boring. Having leapt out of bed long before a winter dawn, children are waning by lunch, dropping by the time of the Queen’s Speech and fractious long before bed time. Not only do fairy cakes distract them but provide a little burst of energy to keep everyone happy.
In my day, cupcakes were called fairy cakes. The name may have changed but my cakes have not, and nor has children’s (and grown ups’) love for them. I remember making them at the age of about ten and entering my efforts into our local British Legion Flower Show. My timing was a bit off on that occasion and I nearly didn’t make it. Probably because they were still warm from the oven, I won first prize. Those were decorated with simple white icing but for Christmas, green, red and stars bring an essence of festive spirit.
Like puppies, fairy cakes are not just for Christmas: there is never an occasion that is not improved with a mouthful or two of these delicious sweet treats, and a little bit of what you fancy does you good. Rees-Moggs of all generations still ask for fairy cakes for special landmarks. And a second generation of them are asking to be taught the secret of Nanny’s Cakes. In the old days, before the anti-sugar campaigners ruined things, I used to make these miniature morsels for my charges’ school snacks – and an endless number of their friends who would shun a tiny pack of raisins or an apple for something so much more enjoyable. Nowadays a good number are still sent into school for classmates to celebrate my charges’ birthdays. At Christmas time, a little bit of decoration takes the everyday to being festive but just as delicious as ever.
To me, Christmas is about two things: Jesus’ birthday and children. There is nothing so magical as a youngster – or six of them in our household – bursting with excitement, ripping into presents, laughing, joking and sharing special childhood moments. But it is a long day, that is also full of adult things. It is a rare four year old that enjoys sitting down to watch the Queen’s Speech, although they must all stand for the National Anthem, and even fewer want to eat Brussels sprouts. Most children I know are also not great fans of mince pies or Christmas pudding, so it only seems fair that they should have something to relish just as we do.
My ingredient list is not original. It is how sponge cakes have been made for generations. However, the lightness is all in the folding. I am a believer in labour saving devices but absolutely nothing beats the airy consistency created by good folding. Lifting and turning the glutinous mixture is an art. If you treat your mixture with care, it will repay you by melting in your mouth. Having taught Emma, Charlotte, Thomas, Jacob and Annunziata my technique, I know that young wrists can need a helping hand. However, it is a wonderful family activity and the bowl is always licked clean – hopefully after the cakes are in the oven. Children can also help decorate cakes from any age – and somehow it is as though their own efforts create a added touch of magic. No matter what concoction they splurge on the top of the cakes – from marshmallows and Smarties to hundreds and thousands with aniseed balls, if they made it they will think that their own is by far the most delicious. And as every child thinks this, there is no arguing, just contented munching.
Many people appear to think that we live in a previous century. Certainly, when it comes to Christmas, traditions reign strong. Stockings are opened, party clothes worn, turkey eaten begrudgingly and fairy cakes made and devoured. As the children gather round the mixing bowl, and chose which toppings to sprinkle, working together but fighting over the mixture covered wooden spoon, all I can say is if people think this is out of date I pity them – they don’t know what they are missing.
Recipe: as for a traditional Victoria Sponge (multiply amounts depending how many cupcakes you wish to bake).
4oz caster sugar
4oz soft margarine
4oz self-raising flour
teaspoon baking powder
2 eggs
Method: Beat the margarine and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the beaten eggs slowly, mixing as you go. Gently fold in the sifted flour and baking powder a bit at a time, be careful to mix thoroughly but don’t overmix. Spoon carefully into small cupcake cases and bake at 160C for ten minutes or until risen and golden. If you want a chocolate variation, just switch half the flour for cocoa powder.
Icing: far too many people rely on pre-bought icing. There is a huge drawback to this – the toppings so loved by children won’t stick to it. So buy icing sugar and dye – red and green for Christmas – and mix with cooling boiled water until you have the right consistency.
Toppings: Raid the shops but don’t be limited to the baking section. Smarties and mini marshmallows can often be more appreciated than the rather more chic stars and baubles that adults admire.
Christmas is a time for us all to remember our inner child. It brings families of all ages together. Congregating around a mixing bowl, watching the oven do its magic and savouring a small but delicious delicacy is enjoyable at any age.
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