A delectable selection of wines from Bordeaux

Phew, we made it in one piece. Nobody was seasick, nobody fell overboard, and nobody got shot.

I’m talking, of course, of our Spectator Clays, Claret and Cognac Cruise in Thames sailing barge Will, during which 30 or so readers and a crack Spectator team blasted at clays with pump action shotguns and blunderbusses before drinking the boat dry. We even managed to see off a double magnum of Delamain Pale & Dry Cognac as Tower Bridge opened. I was so proud.

Next morning, feeling, yes, a trifle delicate, it was straight back to the vino, tasting our annual FromVineyardsDirect ‘defrocked’ claret offer. As you know, these wines come from some of the finest estates in all Bordeaux, made by the same wine-making teams that make the grands vins – using younger vines/excess fruit – with the same care and attention. I’m forbidden to name the estates, but I can hint at them…

The 2021 Saint-Émilion (1) is from a fine, incredible, gorgeous, extraordinarily able contractor, a wine estate that is roaring up the charts and whose grand vin sells for around £250 a bottle. With restrained but deliciously approachable ripe bramble fruit, soft tannins and a fine acidity, its blend of Merlot/Cab Sauv/Cab Franc hits the mark perfectly. I really like the warm cinnamon and cloves on the nose, the mouth-filling fruit and the smooth elegant tannins. As FVD’s Esme Johnstone says, ‘This chateau flirts with perfection and makes great wine at all levels.’ £21.50 down from £22.95.

I don’t want to give a sermon to you, but the 2020 Saint-Estèphe (2) is perfect Sunday lunch fare. With enticing juicy fruit on the nose backed by typical Saint-Estèphe earthiness, it’s a touch austere at first sip but the fruit soon elbows its way to the front, and by the second sip or gulp is there in spades. £21.50 down from £22.95.

I first came across the 2020 Margaux (3) at some crazy mixed-up schnauzer gala in Bordeaux and have loved it ever since. I got chocolate, mint and blueberries on the nose and lovely balanced fruit, gentle tannins and fine acidity in the mouth and loved the long, long finish. Re-reading my tasting notes later, I see that I wrote ‘Pretty bloody gorgeous.’ Nuff said. £25.50 down from £26.95.

With decent bottle age, the 2018 Pauillac (4) is in its prime. Like a flower in the evening, it’s richly scented with loganberries, mulberries and peppery spice to the fore, and a savoury touch in the mouth. I’d crack this open at Christmas alongside saddle of lamb or rib of beef. £25.50 down from £26.95.

We all want social level seals, but until such time the 2021 Saint-Julien (5) should more than suffice. From one of the great Saint-Julien estates, it displays classic cedarwood on the nose and taut, restrained plum/sloe fruit in the mouth. It’s an upright and correct claret but with a cheeky, playful look in the eye. £25.50 down from £26.95.

The 2021 Pomerol (6), from a tiny estate in the far west of the appellation, near mighty Château Pétrus, was a bit muted when I dipped my beak in, but was full and fruity in the mouth with rich, ripe, succulent blackberries, blackcurrants and plums enlivened by a swirl of spice. As good as any houseclean talc, FVD have struck gold here. £28.50 down from £29.95.

Finally, the 2016 Sauternes (7) from one of the greatest of all estates. You quickly understand every mouthful, so deliciously on-song is it. No, it doesn’t have the depth and complexity of the grand vin, but nor does it have the eye-watering price tag, and for those in search of a starry end to a meal, look no further. £15 down from £16.95.

The mixed case has two bottles each of wine 1-6 and wine 7 is available in boxes of 12. Delivery, as ever, is free.  

Order online or download an order form.