Sara Wheeler

A mighty river with many names: adventures on the Amur

Even cracked ribs and a broken fibula don’t deter the octogenarian Colin Thubron from following the course of the vast waterway that borders Russia and China

The Heilongjiang River (or Amur) partly frozen at Beiji in Mohe, northern China. [Alamy] 
issue 11 September 2021

The Amur is the eighth or tenth longest river in the world, depending on whom you believe. The veteran travel writer and novelist Colin Thubron reckons 2,826 miles the best estimate. In these pages he makes an arc-shaped journey from source to mouth: Mongolia to the Pacific via Russia and China.

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