All-French white wines, courtesy of FromVineyardsDirect

After a week in Hungary, I’ve almost forgotten what French wines taste like. I’m just back from our inaugural Spectator tour of Budapest and Tokaj where, in the company of my colleague Richard Bratby and 20 or so extremely engaging and really quite thirsty readers, I drank little else but dry Furmint, sweet Tokaji and Bull’s Blood.

Well, some of us also did what the locals did and downed a glass or so of pálinka just to be polite. Oh, and a few beers. And some martinis in Hotsy Totsy and some more in Boutiq (don’t blame me, it was Richard’s idea). The point is that I’ve been on an all-Hungarian diet and, sublimely tasty and satisfying though this was, by journey’s end all I craved was a fine white burgundy.

Here six different wine regions and nine different grape varieties are represented, and no duplicates

Hurrah, then, for this brilliantly timed offer of all-French white wines from Esme Johnstone of FromVineyardsDirect. He sent me a fascinating selection to choose from and I worked hard/drank lots to make it as varied as possible, with – after much agonising – six different wine regions and nine different grape varieties represented and no duplicates. Don’t say I don’t try.

The 2023 Mas Carlot ‘Générations’ (1) is an old favourite of this page which I’m delighted to offer again in its latest vintage. A blend from the Costières de Nîmes in the southern Rhône of three of my pet varieties – Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier – it’s peachy, apricotty, almondy and creamy with just the faintest hint of spice. £12.75 down from £13.95.

The 2023 Racine Picpoul de Pinet (2) is as fine an example of this increasingly popular grape/wine as you’ll find, produced by the long-standing friends Bruno Lafon and François Chamboissier, the much-fêted Bordelais and Burgundian behind many a beautifully made and cannily priced southern French wine.