After a week in Hungary, I’ve almost forgotten what French wines taste like. I’m just back from our inaugural Spectator tour of Budapest and Tokaj where, in the company of my colleague Richard Bratby and 20 or so extremely engaging and really quite thirsty readers, I drank little else but dry Furmint, sweet Tokaji and Bull’s Blood.
Well, some of us also did what the locals did and downed a glass or so of pálinka just to be polite. Oh, and a few beers. And some martinis in Hotsy Totsy and some more in Boutiq (don’t blame me, it was Richard’s idea). The point is that I’ve been on an all-Hungarian diet and, sublimely tasty and satisfying though this was, by journey’s end all I craved was a fine white burgundy.
Here six different wine regions and nine different grape varieties are represented, and no duplicates
Hurrah, then, for this brilliantly timed offer of all-French white wines from Esme Johnstone of FromVineyardsDirect. He sent me a fascinating selection to choose from and I worked hard/drank lots to make it as varied as possible, with – after much agonising – six different wine regions and nine different grape varieties represented and no duplicates. Don’t say I don’t try.
The 2023 Mas Carlot ‘Générations’ (1) is an old favourite of this page which I’m delighted to offer again in its latest vintage. A blend from the Costières de Nîmes in the southern Rhône of three of my pet varieties – Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier – it’s peachy, apricotty, almondy and creamy with just the faintest hint of spice. £12.75 down from £13.95.
The 2023 Racine Picpoul de Pinet (2) is as fine an example of this increasingly popular grape/wine as you’ll find, produced by the long-standing friends Bruno Lafon and François Chamboissier, the much-fêted Bordelais and Burgundian behind many a beautifully made and cannily priced southern French wine. It’s crisp, clean, zingy and refreshing and should be in everyone’s fridge this summer. £13.75 down from £14.95.
As I never tire of saying, Alsace is my favourite of all French wine regions, and the 2021 Dopff & Irion ‘Cuvée René Dopff’ Pinot Gris (3) is just so pleasing, encapsulating everything that I love about the place. From vineyards in and around the glorious village of Riquewihr, it’s fresh and creamy, with hints of peaches and lychees, that inimitable Alsace spice, and a dry to off-dry finish. I would drink this every night if I could. £14.75 down from £15.95.
The 2022 Bernard Fouquet Vouvray Le Petit Clos Sec (4) is another wine to make one smile – a brilliant expression of Chenin Blanc, that most versatile of grapes. Despite its huge success in South Africa, Chenin never sings so well as it does in the Loire Valley, where it makes wonderful sparklers, dry, medium and sweet whites. Here, Bernard Fouquet has fermented and aged the wine on its lees in amphorae, producing a perfectly balanced, creamy yet fresh, mineral, bone-dry example. £15.75 down from £16.95.
Gosh, I enjoyed the 2023 Domaine Talmard Mâcon-Uchizy (5), and I enjoyed its relatively modest price too. Mallory and Benjamin Talmard use stainless steel rather than oak and the wine is pure and focused, with plenty of white stone fruit and citrus and just a hint of honey. This is quality Chardonnay for those who find the oaked versions too much. £16.75 down from £17.95.
Finally, the 2022 Ch. Bastor-Lamontagne ‘Confidence’ (6), the previous vintage of which taught me not to be so dismissive of the dry whites of Bordeaux. I just never think to buy such wines, but then I taste something like this and wonder why I’m such a twit, because it’s lovely. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon from a famous estate best known for its sumptuous Sauternes, it’s rich and tropical with underlying citrus notes and a whisper of vanilla. A seriously fine dry wine. £17.50 down from £18.95.
The mixed case has two bottles each of wines 1-6. Delivery, as ever, is free.
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