Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Delicious wines to celebrate the end of Dry January 

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issue 10 February 2024

Water wagon? What water wagon? With Dry January now just a ghastly memory, let’s start cracking open the vino. And, crikey, we’ve a corking offer with FromVineyardsDirect to tempt you. If you don’t salivate immediately, well, I don’t think you like wine at all.

FVD need to clear the decks to take in newer vintages and have generously offered Spectator readers first dibs on more than 30 different clarets, all from the excellent 2016, 2017, 2018 vintages, all at least 10 per cent below market price and all worthy of a place in your cellar or glass. 2016 was a spectacular year with fabulous wines produced across the board, a genuine 10/10 vintage. 2017 was a frost-ridden, low-yielding year, but with some very tasty wines produced, albeit not quite as fine as in 2016. 2018 was plagued by uncertain weather but redeemed by a long hot summer which resulted in some great, long-lived wines.

With such a stellar selection, it was all but impossible to come up with my favourite six

Please don’t faff around, because you have ten days before FVD offer these wines to their own customers, upon which they will sell out. Most are in wooden boxes – some in dozens, some in sixes – but if you want to mix and match your own case, feel free.

With such a stellar selection, it was all but impossible to come up with my favourite six, but I’ve done my best. If you’re interested in perusing the other wines, the full list is available at www.fromvineyardsdirect.com/spectator. Any queries, go straight to the top and call FVD’s main man, co-founder Esme Johnstone, on 020 7549 7900. Tell him I sent you.

In the meantime, here are my picks of the vinous pops, with six different châteaux, five different Bordeaux appellations and three different vintages. Don’t say we don’t try!

The 2016 Château Gloria (1) is drinking beautifully. One of the best-known names of St Julien – albeit an unclassified one, having only been established in the 1950s – it’s full of rich, concentrated blackcurrant fruit, a touch of spice and softening tannins. It’s ready, yes, but will keep. £56.95 per down from £64.95.

I have a soft spot for the 2016 Château Cantemerle (2), the estate being the first in Bordeaux I ever visited. A 5ième Grand Cru Classé, it’s astonishingly good value and drinking superbly with plenty of intense, ripe hedgerow fruit and the longest of finishes. £26.95 per down from £29.95.

The 2017 Château Teyssier (3) is a St Emilion Grand Cru from the great Jonathan Maltus, who showed this very wine to us at a recent Spectator Winemaker’s Lunch. A Merlot/Cab Franc blend, it’s packed with ripe plum/damson fruit, herbaceous notes and spice. £21.95 down from £24.95.

The 2017 Château Ormes de Pez (4) from the Cazes family of Château Lynch Bages, is rich, plummy and juicy thanks to a dominance of Merlot in the blend. There’s that typical touch of St Estèphe earthiness on the finish and a hint of blackcurrant coulis. £28.95 down from £32.95.

The 2018 Château Cissac (5) is a gem and such good value. With opulent blackberry/blackcurrant fruit, decent tannins and a seemingly endless finish, it’s bang on, although it needs time really to blossom. £17.95 down from £20.95.

Angludet’s Max Sichel hosted a memorable tasting for us last year and the 2018 Château Angludet (6) is a triumph. Rich, ripe, elegant and crammed with sweet briary fruit, it has that inimitable Margaux swish of silk and is an absolute delight. £36.95 down from £41.95.

As if these weren’t enough, other highlights include 2016 Château Citran at £18.95 (7), 2016 Château Lanessan at £19.95 (8), 2017 Château Chasse Spleen at £28.95 (9), 2017 Château Langoa Barton at £51.95 (10), 2018 Château Meaume ‘Réserve du Château’ at £12.45 (11) and 2018 Château Potensac at £21.95 (12).

There is no postal form this week because of the need for speed but orders may be placed by phone or online. Prices are per dozen but they can be broken up into mixed dozens if you wish. Delivery, as ever, is free.

Order online today or download an order form.

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