Dinner for one is the best way to spend Valentine's Day

This Valentine’s Day, as the nation does its duty and celebrates by dining out, often in stilted discomfort, it occurs to me that many of my finest restaurant experiences have been in singular company. No offence is meant to my wife, whose conversation has remained fascinating to me over the 21 years of our relationship. And no snub to my friends, either, especially those – a non-trivial number – with whom friendship has been founded on sharing long lunches and prolonged dinners. But in a life filled with superb restaurant meals, some of the best, I realise, are those I have spent alone.

Valentine’s Day triggers these thoughts, with its annual rush for restaurant reservations amongst the nation’s couples. The scene on the evening of 14 February is so often glum – but it is only an exaggerated version of what takes place every other night of the year. Fine to see families having to work at their conversation, and lapsing awkwardly into silence – family is an obligation, and falling into easy chat with children is never guaranteed – but sad to see how often it afflicts couples.