It was the mighty Andrew Edmunds’s memorial last week – he of the eponymous restaurant and the Academy Club, those last vestiges of old Soho. All the great and the louche were there paying their respects to this delightful man of many parts – restaurateur, clubman, wine lover, fine print purveyor, flower arranger, fly fisherman and scourge of poets and golfers.
Among those saying goodbye were Robin Yapp, his son Jason and his stepson Tom, the founder and his two successors at Yapp Bros. Robin used to lead my father badly astray and Jas (who introduced me to the Academy over a ten-hour lunch) and Tom have kept up the family tradition by doing likewise with me.
These boys know their wines. Nobody is more adept at tracking down great-value bottles in France’s hidden folds
They might be wicked and dangerous, but these boys know their wines. Nobody is more adept in tracking down great value bottles in the hidden folds of France, and this is one of their best selections yet.
The 2022 Domaine Saint Gayan ‘Argiles’ (1) is a breezy blend of Piquepoul – increasingly used in blends these days and here bringing freshness, acidity and zip – Bourboulenc and Grenache Blanc from la famille Meffre in Gigondas. Having made highly sought-after reds for yonks, the Meffres decided to produce a simple vin de soif just for themselves. So tasty was the result they couldn’t help but make it more widely available. Fresh, lively and lemony, with peach and honeysuckle, it’s a little gem. £10.75 down from £11.75.
Once deemed fit for serving only when adulterated with a slug of crème de cassis, Aligoté, too, is becoming more popular and the 2021 Closerie des Alisiers Bourgogne Aligoté (2) shows just how well it can perform in the right hands, in this instance those of Stéphane Brocard (of Chablis fame). Unoaked, it’s fresh and citrusy, soft, smooth and bone dry and makes a great aperitif. £15 down from £16.
The 2022 Domaine Lombard ‘Les Davids’ (3) from the tiny AOC of Brézème, at the southern end of the northern Rhône, is my wine of the offer. It ain’t cheap, I know, but crikey it’s top notch and excellent value when compared to similar Hermitage Blanc or even Crozes-Hermitage Blanc. A 50/50 blend of Marsanne and Roussanne, aged in tank, amphorae and new oak, it’s soft, peachy, apricotty and creamy, with hints of wild fennel, honeysuckle and pear. I couldn’t keep my hands off it. A canny purchase indeed. £23.50 down from £24.50.
The 2022 Cave Saint-Désirat Gamay (4) is a stalwart of the Yapps’ list, having been shipped by them for decades from an excellent co-operative near Saint-Joseph in the Rhône. Lusciously drinkable, it shows just how amiable a grape Gamay can be. No, it’s not Cru Beaujolais but nor is it Cru Beaujolais price – just good honest red from a good honest co-op. This is exactly what Yapp Bros is all about. £11.25 down from £12.25.
And talking of fine co-operatives, the 2021 Grand Aven (5), from the Côtes du Vivarais, near the spectacular Pont du Gard on edge of the Massif Central, is produced by the highly regarded Vignerons Ardechois makers of Yapps’ excellent own-label wines. A blend of Syrah and Grenache, it’s full of juicy red and dark berry fruit, with a tantalising touch of herbs on the finish. £13.25 down from £14.25.
Finally, following those two superb-value clarets last week, we’ve the 2020 Château d’Abzac (6), a first-rate petit château at a crazy price. Bordeaux remains polarised, with ridiculously overpriced wines at the top end and ridiculously underpriced wines at the lower end. There’s a glut of wine in France that’s so severe the government is spending €200 million in distilling the surplus, and it’s a buyer’s paradise if you know where to look (such as here). This elegant 100 per cent Merlot from near Pomerol, just north of Libourne, is an absolute steal. £15 down from £16.
The mixed case has two bottles of each wine and delivery, as ever, is free.
Order online, or download an order form.
Comments