It’s uncanny, but if I gauge it right, I can summon my wife as if by magic. Mrs R’s hearing is at its most acute in that lull between her afternoon Earl Grey and evening G&T, at which point she can hear me pop a cork from two floors away. She’ll be down in a trice, equipped with an inquiring thirst. ‘Ooh, a tasting,’ she’ll declare, all fresh-faced innocence. ‘Can I help?’
And so it was that we hoovered through some fabulous wines from Corney & Barrow together and came up – unanimously – with this final selection.
The 2021 Pãsãri Chardonnay/Feteascã Regalã (1) is one of my wines of the year. Made at a British-owned Romanian estate by an Australian and a Spaniard, it’s deliciously undemanding. A blend of oaked Chardonnay and unoaked Feteascã Regalã, it’s soft, smooth and silky with honeyed ripe apples, peaches and zesty citrus. Who knew Romanian wines were so engaging? £8.96 down from £9.95.
Everything you’d hope for in a claret twice the price: scents of roses, cedarwood, cigar box
The 2020 Julien Braud, Moulin de la Justice, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (2) is also a surprise, given how lacklustre Muscadet can be. 100 per cent Melon de Bourgogne from an organically farmed estate in the Pays Nantais, it’s watery white and, although initially reticent, opens up beautifully with fresh, creamy fruit and a long, dry, slightly salty finish. I’d rather this than most Picpouls. £13.73 down from £15.25.
Staying in the Loire, we’ve the 2020 Domaine la Croix Saint-Laurent Sancerre ‘Caillottes’ (3) from the tiny village of Bué. Made entirely from Sauvignon Blanc (of course), it enjoyed a long, cool fermentation – partly in stainless steel, partly in acacia barrels – before resting on the lees for eight months. The result is a wine of immense style with succulent citrus and subtle passion-fruit. £20.66 down from £22.95.
Cheap – sorry – well-priced, Pinot Noir is notoriously tricky to find, so hats off to the excellent 2022 Les Lys de Léon Pinot Noir (4). It might only be a mere Vin de France, but I’d be delighted to serve it to any guest. Fresh, lively, juicy with lots of cherries and strawbs, it can be served at room temperature or chilled. I can’t believe there’s another Pinot as tasty or as versatile at such a modest price. £10.76 down from £11.95.
The 2018 Licantén Idahue Estate Merlot (5), from Chile’s Curicó Valley, is another easy-going red to bring a smile to one’s chops. Made from 85 per cent Merlot and 15 per cent Syrah/Malbec, it’s steel-fermented and oak-aged and, with plenty of bottle age, is in its prime. With rich, concentrated dark fruit, hints of vanilla and spice and a savoury touch, it begs to be knocked back. £13.46 down from £14.95.
I wanted to offer the 2016 Château Lafon (6) at Christmas but so fine a Cru Bourgeois claret is it, stocks were already exhausted. C&B’s James Franklin kindly promised to order more specially for us and – hurrah! – here it is. Don’t let it slip through your fingers. A one third Cab Sauv/two thirds Merlot from Listrac-Médoc, it has everything you’d hope for in a claret twice the price: scents of roses, cedarwood, cigar box; luscious, ripe plum/blackcurrant fruit; soft tannins and a long, satisfying finish. You’ll love it! £14.36 down from £15.95.
Finally, a real treat, currently available to Spectator readers only: the 2019 Producteurs Plaimont ‘Le Faîte Blanc’ Saint Mont (7) from Gascony, south-west France. I’ve tasted this glorious, hugely sought-after wine at the winery and adore it. A blend of Petit Courbu, Gros and Petit Manseng, presented in chic wax-sealed, wooden-labelled bottles, it’s wonderfully intricate, being both rich and dry, full of tropical fruit, citrus, cream and spice. If you enjoy fine wine but tire of familiar grape varieties and regions, snap it up: it’s stunning. £20 down from £21.50.
The mixed case has two bottles each of wines 1-6, and wine 7 is available in unmixed wooden boxes of six. Delivery is free for orders of £120 upwards, £12.50 for under.
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