How to celebrate in style

It was Mrs Ray’s birthday the other day. Or rather it was what she now terms her birthday week – seven days during which flags fly, trumpets sound, corks pop and she can do no wrong.

I find it all quite exhausting. It’s not just the running up and down with cups of tea and gins and tonic, nor the plumping up of the sofa in preparation for another of her box sets, nor the cooking, it’s the firm ‘We have to/we can’t: it’s my birthday week’ that begins to pall.

Happily one of Mrs R’s demands is no chore: fine champagne, of which we drank gallons during the 168-hour celebrations.

One of the very finest was Champagne Geoffroy ‘Expression’ Brut NV (1), a staple of Armit Wines, our partners this week. The Geoffroy family have grown grapes in the Marne Valley since the 17th century and made fine fizz since the 1950s. This, a Pinot Meunier/Pinot Noir-rich blend based largely on the 2018 vintage, is a complete joy – full, rounded, honeyed and toasty, backed with a crisp freshness. £32.20 down from £40.20.

The Champagne Gimonnet Cuis 1er Cru NV (2) makes a beautiful counterpoint, being 100 per cent Côtes des Blancs Chardonnay, drawn from six different vintages. Citrusy, apple-y and fresh with the finest of mousses, it’s tiptop champers and no mistake. £37.80 down from £47.20.

As you know, the Spectator Wine Club is heading to Budapest and Tokaj in June, and we’ll make a beeline for the charming 2021 Ch. Dereszla Dry Tokaji (3). Made from 100 per cent Furmint, vinified completely dry, it’s light, elegant, succulent and a very cheering price.