‘You’ll see when you get there,’ my friend said. ‘There’s just a different vibe in Montreal.’ He wasn’t wrong. I travelled from Toronto by train – a five-hour journey made infinitely more bearable by the impressive landscapes that flashed past the window – to find that Montreal is a tale of two cities.
Still distinctly North American – and Canada’s second most populous metropolis – Montreal is dotted with all the chrome skyscrapers and wide, bustling intersections you would expect. Yet around each corner there is also a dose of seemingly incongruous European flavour: a cobbled street, an old stone church, a statue in a tree-lined square. For every modern vista, there is a strip of café culture that kids you into thinking you have strolled down a French avenue. This is when you remember you’re not in Kansas any more, Toto. C’est le Québec.
Montreal is regularly ranked one of the best cities in the world to live in, and it’s easy to see why. As my friend hinted, there is that nebulous, wafty thing you might call a ‘vibe’ in Montreal. Hard to put your finger on, perhaps impossible to accurately describe, but you can feel it from the moment you begin exploring. Perhaps it is the curious blend of cultures and influences, the boldness of the North American paired with the intricate quirks of the European, the French spoken on every corner. There’s also an impressive roster of hotels to choose from, from the downtown grandeur of the Four Seasons to the historic eccentricity of Le Mount Stephen, and from the cool and original Hotel Bonaventure to Old Montreal’s hidden gem, Hotel Nelligan.
There is enough to do in Montreal to make it the perfect weekend city break – either as part of a longer trip to Canada, or if you fly direct from the UK (which, at around seven hours, is quicker than flying to New York). We began our visit with breakfast at Olive + Gourmando, a deservedly popular eatery in Old Montreal. I firmly believe in starting any weekend trip this way. Sink into your seat with a steaming cup of coffee and a great plate of food (here, the highlight is the sweet ricotta served on brioche bread with a dusting of Maldon salt and orange zest) and plan your day.
We decided to make the most of the clear skies by walking up the triple-peaked hill which gives the city its name: Mount Royal. It’s a long but rewarding walk (North Americans may go so far as to call it a ‘hike’) and is where you will find plenty of locals on a sunny Saturday – walking their dogs, running, cycling or simply out with the family for a stroll. You can take an uphill ascent via either the stairs which cut into the hillside, or on the more leisurely circular avenues which enwrap the hills, lined with tall trees and an increasingly impressive view. The view is, of course, what you climb for, and it is worth it. Grab a coffee at the vista point café and take in all of Montreal spread out below you.
Once we’d come back down to earth, we headed to Old Montreal – brimming with charm, cafes and boutiques, it’s perfect for an afternoon of exploring. This is a great shopping town for anyone who wants to take advantage of the (thus far) favourable exchange rate. Maison Pepin is a treasure trove of stunning interiors as well as men and women’s clothing, and the world-famous Bonsecours Market is a Borough Market-esque set up of stalls, bistros and cafes which is well worth a visit. You should also take a casual stroll down the cobbled and picturesque Rue St Paul, which is overflowing with great foodie haunts and shops.
For a late lunch, we made our way to the rooftop terrace of the William Gray, an achingly cool boutique hotel in Old Montreal with another impressive view over the city. Here we indulged in delicious snacks and a bottle or two of wine (you can get, naturally, some of the better bottles of French plonk in Montreal) and watched the sun set. Later, it was a quick cab (all reasonable and accessible) to the chic neighbourhood of Outremont to check out hugely popular Syrian restaurant Damas, which was deserving of its hype, with generous portions of incredible grilled shrimp and halloumi, hummus and fattouch.
The next day kicked off with brunch at Dandy, which opened in 2019 but still has the power to pull in that ‘no reservations’ crowd (just check the lines outside). Once again, it has a grand, old European brasserie feel, with excellent food to match, from brunch classics to a superlative plate of garlicky mushrooms on sourdough. From there, we walked along the old port, which is a curious mix of the Atlantic City boardwalk and London’s South Bank, before sauntering towards some of Montreal’s best cultural sights – the Museum of Fine Arts and Museum of Contemporary Arts – and its spectacular old churches, including Notre Dame Basilica (where Montreal local Celine Dion was married) and Mary, Queen of the World cathedral.
For lunch, pick up a few St-Viateur bagels – the most famous in the city – from the equally distracting Laurier area, a great spot for elegant cafes and great shopping. Of course, the perfect way to end a day in Montreal is in one of its wine bars or restaurants. You are spoilt for choice in this city, but I would recommend a local favourite, Café Denise, or the cult haunt Ile Flottante.
Montreal may lack the flashy big ticket ‘must sees’ of some of its North American or European equivalents, but it is notable for its unique melding of the two influences. There is nowhere quite like Montreal. You’ll see it yourself when you visit; there’s just a different ‘vibe’ there.
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