An everlasting chant wafts from the ancient walls of the temple of Kapaleeshwarar: ‘Om Namasivaya.’ The effect is hypnotic. I wander inside and the chant merges with Vedic folk music as a joyous crowd of worshippers sing in praise of Shiva.
An elderly couple are having a birthday blessing and the Dravidian precincts are a riot of colour, jasmine garlands and spice.

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