Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

May Wine Club I

issue 03 May 2014

We’re thinking ahead with this offer, with summer firmly in our sights. Think of barbecues, picnics by the river, summer fêtes and lazy days on the beach. And think of red wine. Chilled.

I’ve never understood our obsession for serving red wines at room temperature or even warmer. The habit started long before the days of central heating — what was room temperature then would be considered jolly parky now.

Of course, big, butch, bold reds need a bit of coaxing to open out and shake off their tannin. But this can be taken to extremes. Only recently I was served an uncomfortably warm Aussie Shiraz that had been well and truly mulled. I swear there was a puff of steam as the sommelier opened it.

Many reds, though, are utterly delicious when lightly chilled and I always keep a Beaujolais, say, or Kiwi Pinot in the fridge. They can be so refreshing and I love the way they warm and develop in the glass.

OK, OK, I know that we’re stretching a point by including the 2013 Ch. de Sours Rosé (1), but in a way it proves my point. It is, after all, made from red grapes (Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) and one wouldn’t think twice about chilling it.

My illustrious predecessor loved Ch. de Sours and it is pretty much top of my pink pops, too. This latest vintage is as good as ever. A gorgeous salmon pink, with plenty of red summer fruits on nose and palate, it is refreshing and creamy with a long dry finish. £10.95 a bottle. Or buy six of the show-stopping magnums for just £133.98.

The 2013 Ique Malbec, Enrique Foster (2), isn’t an obvious candidate for chilling, being a full-throttle Malbec from Argentina.

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