The Spectator

Our rotten taste in tomatoes

Some people think that the only tomato worth eating is the one you’ve grown yourself but this isn’t actually true. I can think of loads of tomatoes – eg the cherry ones grown at the foot of Mt Etna and sold at I Camisa in Old Compton Street, Soho – that are much nicer than most people’s rubbishy, watery, tasteless home grown ones. With home grown tomatoes there’s only one thing that really matters: they have to be the yellow-skinned cherry type called Sungold. Every other variety sucks.

Gardeners Delight? Sucks. Moneymaker? Sucks. That authentic Italian-style, mutant-shaped gigantic tomato variety you bought in order to recreate the ones you buy at the market every day near that wonderful estate you and your mates rent in Tuscany every year for only £14,000 a week? It sucks too because it needs Italian sun to grow into something that tastes of anything, not watery English sun. 

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