Simon Hoggart

September Mini-bar

This is a splendid offer made by FromVineyardsDirect, always a favourite with Spectator readers. It’s a little more expensive than some recent offers, but each wine is such tremendous value that I have no hesitation in recommending them all, heartily. As we move into autumn and winter approaches I’ve picked three terrific reds and just one white.

But what a white! This has a simple label saying just ‘Graves Blanc 2011’ (1) which doesn’t even mention that it is made by one of the great white Bordeaux specialists, Denis Dubourdieu, whose estates include  the superlative Doisy-Daëne, for which you would pay a great deal. White Bordeaux still recalls thin and flaccid Entre-deux-Mers, which we drank unwillingly as students, but this could not be more different: the Sauvignon Blanc is crisp and fruity, the Semillon is rich and rounded, and the light touch of oak gives it extra depth. A very fine wine, at a mere £10.95.

Now a wine that was named a ‘Coup de Coeur’ in the 2012 edition of the magisterial Guide Hachette.

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