I am Cornish. Indeed I am so Cornish my sister lives about three miles from where my echt Cornish ancestors lived in the 13th century (near Falmouth), and my mum makes working-class Cornish recipes so obscurely Cornish most of the Cornish have barely heard of them (‘date and lemon pie’). As such, I am pretty fond of the place, and I like to go back as much as I can. Except in summer, when it’s crowded. And increasingly May. Or September. Or October. Or the rest of autumn. And Christmas, And Easter. And New Year. And any weekend at any time, ever.
The impressively craggy Breton church is weirdly boring inside – like all French churches
Let’s face it, Cornwall is too popular for its own good, and often too pricey, and that’s why I’ve come here, to the French version, a green and coastal chunk of Brittany literally called Cornwall but in French: Cornouaille (for the jolly good reason that it was settled by Cornish people around the 5th century).

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