Six English sparklers to enjoy this Christmas

Before I started researching my book Vines in a Cold Climate, I had a particular image of English sparkling wine as consistent but rarely that exciting. It was all a bit formulaic, like big brand champagne but leaner. I am pleased to say that I could not have been more wrong as the wines now made all over southern England are incredibly diverse, offering a wide array of styles for every palate. If you’re spending between £25 and £50 then England actually offers, on the whole, much more interesting wines than Champagne. Here are six wines that show how different English sparkling wines can be.

Westwell Wicken Foy NV (Westwell £27.50)

I’m a big fan of Westwell not least because it’s one of the nearest vineyards to me. It produces a range of still and sparkling wines but this might be my favourite. It’s made from a blend of roughly equal parts pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay, and aged for 18 months so it’s still quite youthful. For me, the smell is of cider apples and then it’s saline and lemony on the palate with richer notes of yeast and toffee. Huge fun.

Coates & Seely NV ( The Champagne Company £29.50) 

The Coates & Seely in question are Christian Seely who works for French wine giant Axa Millésimes overseeing its prestigious wineries in Portugal, Bordeaux and Hungary, and former banker Nicholas Coates. This Hampshire sparkler is definitely the one to give to Champagne lovers to see if they can tell the difference. There’s green apple fruit with delicate floral, biscuit and hazelnut notes; subtle wine with a beautiful balance that gets better with each sip.

Everflyht Rosé de Saignée 2020 (Grape Brittania £40)

Rosé de Saignée is made using the technique of letting a little of the colour from the red grapes leach into the wine and then drawing some of the now pink liquid off. It’s then fermented in a mixture of wood and stainless steel and the results are wild: crunchy raspberries on the palate with woody oaky flavours and a little tannin. It’s so vivid and alive. You’ve never had fizz like this before.

Domaine Hugo 2020 (Hawkins Brothers £50)

This comes from a tiny biodynamic vineyard in Wiltshire run by Hugo Stewart who had made wine in the Languedoc before returning to his family farm to plant grapes. This is a blend of chardonnay, pinot noir, pinot meunier and pinot gris and, unusually, it’s fermented with wild yeasts and has no sugar added once secondary fermentation is complete. Risky in England’s marginal climate but in this vintage, it’s an absolute triumph, making a wine that tastes intensely rich and vital. Bravo!

Gusbourne Blancs de Blancs 2018 (Grape Britannia £65)

This is probably the English sparkling wine I know the best, mainly because it’s so often available by the glass in Kent. It’s always a great wine but I think this vintage might be the finest yet. It’s made entirely from chardonnay from Kent and Sussex and has that electric English freshness combined with a richness of fruit and irresistible baked croissant notes. 

Ridgeview Chardonnay Oak Reserve NV (Ridgeview £85)

Ridgeview is one of the biggest producers in the country. Everything in the range is consistently good but this shows what winemaker Simon Roberts can do when he lets his hair down a bit. It’s made entirely from chardonnay grown on the estate in Sussex and then fermented and aged in a mixture of old and new oak barrels, before undergoing secondary fermentation in bottle and aged for around six years. The result is something decadent and heady like a sparkling Meursault.