Spectator Mini-Bar Offer | 2 June 2007

Fashions in wine change, like everything else, so it was inevitable that when New World wines swept all before them, Europe would learn to follow the trend. Which is why in southern France, northern Spain and northern Italy these days you find much more highly flavoured wines — ‘fruit bombs’, some cynics call them — though often still showing some of the strength and backbone that comes with a less evenly sunny climate. In the past, the subtlety could be more important than the flavour; now there’s a better balance. And in turn the New World has copied that. These wines, from Graham Mitchell Vintners, who specialise in high-class wines from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa, have all the richness and power you’d expect from those countries, but also a European degree of sophisticated understatement.

The Edwards Vineyard Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2005 (1) is from the great Margaret River area of Western Australia. This is the classic Bordeaux blend, with the Sauvignon bringing the famous grass and gooseberries combo, the Semillon a rich, smooth feel in the mouth. Peaches and lychees too, I’d say. £10.50 a bottle.

Riesling is often dismissed in Britain by those who don’t like the sweetness of most German wines. But this Fiddler’s Green Estate 2005 (2) from Waipara, New Zealand, while having all the expected lime and floral flavours, is bone dry and very satisfying. Perfect with all kinds of food. At £13.25 a bottle they’re not giving it away, but it is very, very good.

South African reds continue to amaze, and the Boschkloof Reserve 2001 (3) from Stellenbosch is basically a first-rate claret, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. It is velvety, packed with fruit, smooth and smoky. It also costs £13.25,