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I’m just back from my annual trip to Adnams of Southwold. It’s one of those events that makes the end of summer rather more tolerable. Their shop in town (they are soon expanding into other parts of booming East Anglia) is cool, elegant and stuffed with exciting wines which Adnams’ buyers have found all over the world. A tasting of a few dozen wines is followed by lunch at the Crown Hotel, which has some of the best food in the region. And I am invariably spoiled for choice; every single one of the wines they suggested this year was of the highest standard, and trimming the number to eight was almost impossible.
But we did it. Alastair Marshall and Rob Chase are offering generous discounts, usually 10 per cent, starting with the wonderful Sauvignon Blanc 2005 from Casa Rivas in the Maipo Valley. The terroir here is more or less perfect for growing vines. It’s divided into small individual parcels of land, all of which bring different qualities to the wine. Even at a ridiculously low £4.79, it has depth and complexity.
Adnams’ own-label wines are remarkably good value too, and I am astonished that their white Burgundy (2005) costs a mere £6.99. It is rounded, nutty, buttery and floral, and almost as good as many famous and expensive names from this neck of the woods. It is also, surprisingly, better than many pricier Oz Chardonnays.
Soave can be one of those depressing wines served in the kind of Italian restaurant where the giant peppermill substitutes for flair in the cooking. Not this Soave Classico Superiore, Pieve Vecchia 2002, which is utterly delicious. It is rich and powerful, aged in oak, and has gorgeous notes of vanilla and lemon. It will improve further after being opened. Alastair has knocked £20 off each case, to bring it down to £10.33. Thoroughly recommended.
I can’t recall offering readers a dessert wine before, so this is a treat. It is made for Adnams to Alastair’s own specifications at the celebrated Plaimont co-op in the foothills of the Pyrenees, and he is justly proud of his creation: ‘aromas of mandarins and candied citrus peel. Sweet honeyed fruit with a dry edge makes this a perfect partner for strawberries, patisserie and all manner of puddings….’ Or luscious with a rich pâté as a canapé, just £6.58 for a 50cl bottle.
Now the reds. I offered the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon from the Bodegas Gouguenheim in Argentina to a friend who drinks only classic French reds, Burgundies and Bordeaux, and he was stunned by its richness and power. Worth far more than the discounted £6.29 Adnams is charging.
That’s the same price as the lovely Cuvée 3 2005 from Minervois, made by the advertising king John Hegarty, who fell for and bought an amphitheatre of vines facing the Montagne Noir. It is velvety yet earthy, with overtones of mint and a very slight sweetness that offsets the other flavours.
The Côtes du Rhône 2004 from the Domaine Clos de Caveau is a stunner.
Wines from this region just seem to get better and better. The estate is entirely biodynamic — I think you can probably taste the difference — and the wine has herbs, spices, liquorice and all sorts of other flavours. It positively leaps out of the glass.
Finally, proof that the winemakers of Cahors have really got to work and are producing wines that are rich and delicious and ready for immediate tippling. This Solis 2001 is made by Mathieu Cosse and it is much nicer than any Cahors I have managed to buy in or near Cahors. Reduced to £7.20 and smashing value.
All the wines are available by the case, and there is a sampler case containing two bottles each of the less expensive wines, and one bottle each of the pricier ones. Delivery is free for most parts of mainland Britain: please phone for details.
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