Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Ten quality bottles from Swig Wines

[iStock] 
issue 01 June 2024

Robin Davis of Swig Wines, specialists in sourcing quirky wines from passionate, artisanal and often eccentric producers, sent me so many bottles to choose from that I got in a right stew. Mrs Ray despaired at my indecision and repaired upstairs with a bottle and a box set. I couldn’t whittle the selection down to six, so came up with the following ten and no mixed case.

A classic blend of Cab Sauv, Merlot and Cab Franc which would easily pass for a wine twice the price

The 2023 Christoph Bauer Gemischter Schatz (literal translation: ‘mixed treasure’) (1) from Jetzelsdorf, north of Vienna, is like nothing else I’ve come across in Austria, being a field blend of co-fermented Welsch-riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Neuberger and Traminer. It’s light, fresh, citrusy and appley and, as Herr Bauer says, blumig, fruchtig and duftig. £13.95 down from £16.95.

I was greatly taken by the 2023 Nai e Señora Albariño (2), from a small family winery in the Salnés Valley, Rías Baixas, Spain. Fresh, peachy, lemony and slightly salty, it’s a brilliant aperitif. If only all Albariño tasted like this. £16.50 down from £19.50.

The 2023 Salt River Sauvignon Blanc (3) from Duncan Savage – onetime Platter’s Producer of the Year – is a gorgeous expression of the variety. Made in Stellenbosch from old bush vines, it’s full of gooseberries, cut grass, nettles and passionfruit and I love it. £19 down from £22.

I’ve had a fondness for Verdicchio ever since my father wrote a naughty limerick about it but struggle to find tasty examples. This has just changed with the 2022 La Staffa
Verdicchio (4), from Staffolo in the north of Le Marche. Crisp, clean and refreshing, with green apples, peaches and almonds and a long finish, it’s the finest I’ve drunk. £19.50 down from £22.50.

The 2021 Red Claw Chardonnay (5) is that rare beast: a subtle, restrained, toned-down Aussie Chardonnay.

GIF Image

Disagree with half of it, enjoy reading all of it

TRY 3 MONTHS FOR $5
Our magazine articles are for subscribers only. Start your 3-month trial today for just $5 and subscribe to more than one view

Comments

Join the debate for just $5 for 3 months

Be part of the conversation with other Spectator readers by getting your first three months for $5.

Already a subscriber? Log in