William Cook

The Grand Union Canal, a serene sanctuary amid the urban sprawl

issue 26 October 2019

It was a Saturday afternoon in September, the end of summer, and I was feeling sorry for myself. I’d gone to see my son play football in Slough. He was on the bench, his team had lost, and now I had to carry his kitbag home while he went out with his teammates. I’d missed my bus back to Uxbridge and it was an hour until the next one. I was trudging back into town when I saw a signpost for the Grand Union Canal. Along the towpath, I reckoned it was about eight miles to Uxbridge. Sod it: I decided to walk home.

When I finally reached Uxbridge dusk was falling and I was feeling happier than I’d felt in ages. I’d hardly seen a soul (a lone fisherman drinking beer, two blokes dredging for scrap metal) but I’d seen swans, herons, cormorants and my first kingfisher. That’s the great thing about the Grand Union Canal: an industrial relic of a bygone age, it really ought to be an eyesore. Instead, it has become a sanctuary amid the urban sprawl.

The Grand Union Canal runs for 137 miles, from London to Birmingham. I’d love to tell you I’ve walked all of it but I haven’t, not nearly. However, the bits I have walked so far are among my favourite walks in Britain: from Brentford to Hanwell, from Watford to Rickmansworth, and, best of all, through the bustling heart of Birmingham.

Brentford? Watford? Birmingham? Is he taking the piss? Not at all. It’s easy to find bucolic walks that run through unspoilt rural scenery. What’s so good about the Grand Union are the stretches flora and fauna have reclaimed. The Slough arm was built to carry bricks. Now it’s a haven for wildlife.

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