The quest for the perfect malt

It was poker night. Five yuppies crammed round a table in a room at the back of a south London semi. Tumblers and water were on the table.

Conventions had developed. The host cooked the food (or so he said) and the four guests each brought a bottle of whisky. The guests rotated between four ‘stations’. One had to supply a standard blended scotch. Another had to provide a whisky from outside the United Kingdom. Another had to find an affordable malt (no more than £40). The last had to produce an ‘interesting’ malt. Ordinarily, this would be from a boutique producer; but if the nominee had had a good quarterly review then a special bottle would be brought. The blend was opened first and drunk last. The non-UK whisky was tried first, then the affordable malt, then the interesting bottle. No more than a third of each bottle could be drunk throughout the night — a golden rule.

The cards were dealt and the first three bottles hit the table: Famous Grouse, Four Roses (Bourbon) and a 15-year-old Glenfiddich. It was a fine selection. Famous Grouse with a splash of water or soda is pleasant enough. Four Roses is very moreish — sweet and spicy on the palate. Aged Glenfiddich has none of the soapy tartness of its younger versions; it has a subtle, smoky flavour and a mellow finish. All very nice in their own way.

Several hands of poker were played before the main event: the unveiling of the interesting bottle. The fourth guest was evidently doing well for himself; he produced two bottles of Glenmorangie 1975. The cards stopped.

Closer inspection showed that the bottles were different. The first was mahogany in colour. Measures were poured into fresh glasses.