Oh dear, I’m about to be ‘Yapped’. Jason and Tom, those evil geniuses behind Yapp Bros – in fact they’re step-bros – are taking me on their next buying trip. I love them dearly, but rarely return from such expeditions unscathed, and yet again fear for my well-being.
Unrivalled as they are in rootling out the rarest, tastiest vinous treasures of France, Jas and Tom are also masters of mischief and can sniff out trouble in the most unpromising places. ‘Just the one glass and it’s off to bed,’ they’ll chorus, all innocence. Six hours later, I’ll have no idea where I am nor where I’ve been but will have a nagging fear it’ll require a fib or so to Mrs Ray.
The Yapps are unrivalled in rootling out the rarest, tastiest vinous treasures of France
We’ll have drunk wonderful wines along the way, though – such as the 2022 Grand Aven (1) from the Côtes du Vivarais in the far north-west reaches of the southern Rhône. Made by the 2,000-grower-strong Vignerons Ardéchois cooperative, it’s cracking value. A blend of Grenache Blanc and Marsanne, it’s soft, citrusy and creamy with spring blossom and peach. £13.25 per down from £14.25.
I’ve banged on about the 2022 Yapp Bros white burgundy (2) ever since my socks were blown off by it at last year’s tasting of The Bunch, that coalition of independent merchants of which Yapp Bros is a member. Made by the 100-year-old Cave de Lugny cooperative, it’s as fine a house white burgundy as you’ll find, at as fair a price. With fresh lemon, honey, nuts and cream, it’s a gem.£16.25 per down from £17.25.
The 2022 Domaine Richeaume ‘Tradition Blanc’ (3) is typical Yapp fare, a deliciously welcoming blend of organic old-vine, hand-picked Rolle, Viognier and Grenache Blanc (fermented separately) from the slopes of Mont Saint-Victoire near Aix-en-Provence. Enticingly aromatic and full of peaches, pears and apricots, it has weight, depth and complexity, and captures perfectly the rural France that Yapps is all about. £19.25 down from £20.25.
The 2022 Yapp Bros Red Côtes du Rhône (4) is the wine that Mrs R and I fought over the most, because it’s so unfussily, brazenly tasty and because only a fool stands between my wife and her chosen bottle. A blend of Grenache and Syrah from the aforementioned Vignerons Ardéchois, it’s plummy, juicy, soft, silky and so damn moreish that I can’t imagine anyone not clasping it to them in sheer joy. £9.95 down from £10.95.
If you like swanky Rhône but quail at the price, then head for the biodynamic/organic 2022 Domaine Lombard ‘Azalée’ (5) from Brézème in the north of the Côtes du Rhône AOC. A blend of 90 per cent Syrah and 10 per cent Viognier (à la Côte Rôtie), it’s full of juicy red/black fruit lifted and softened by the co-fermented white and a touch of carbonic maceration. Lively, fresh and affable, the bottle was emptied in a trice. Tsk, that darn wife of mine… £15.25 down from £16.25.
The 2022 Domaine André Vatan ‘Maulin Bèle’ Sancerre Rouge (6) is a Pinot Noir of such easy appeal that it demanded inclusion. The Vatan family have supplied Yapp Bros for over 50 years and their white Sancerre is famously fine. This, though, is far rarer, made in tiny quantities with the same unerring skill and attention. With bright, ripe cherry fruit, it’s light and fresh with typical earthy, smoky Pinot notes and it works well lightly chilled. Gosh it’s good! £19.25 per down from £20.25.
Finally, as an added treat, we’ve a stunning red burgundy that’s just hitting its elegant stride but which also has years left in it: the 2020 Frédéric Magnien Morey-Saint-Denis, 1er Cru ‘Les Blanchards’ (7) from east-facing lower slopes of Morey, just below Grands Crus such as Clos des Lambrays, Clos de la Roche and Clos de Tart. Just 20 three-bottle wooden gift boxes are available at £159, delivered.
The mixed case has two bottles of wines 1 to 6. Delivery is free over £125.
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