Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Vinous treasures from Yapp Brothers

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issue 24 February 2024

Oh dear, I’m about to be ‘Yapped’. Jason and Tom, those evil geniuses behind Yapp Bros – in fact they’re step-bros – are taking me on their next buying trip. I love them dearly, but rarely return from such expeditions unscathed, and yet again fear for my well-being.

Unrivalled as they are in rootling out the rarest, tastiest vinous treasures of France, Jas and Tom are also masters of mischief and can sniff out trouble in the most unpromising places. ‘Just the one glass and it’s off to bed,’ they’ll chorus, all innocence. Six hours later, I’ll have no idea where I am nor where I’ve been but will have a nagging fear it’ll require a fib or so to Mrs Ray.

The Yapps are unrivalled in rootling out the rarest, tastiest vinous treasures of France

We’ll have drunk wonderful wines along the way, though – such as the 2022 Grand Aven (1) from the Côtes du Vivarais in the far north-west reaches of the southern Rhône. Made by the 2,000-grower-strong Vignerons Ardéchois cooperative, it’s cracking value. A blend of Grenache Blanc and Marsanne, it’s soft, citrusy and creamy with spring blossom and peach. £13.25 per down from £14.25.

I’ve banged on about the 2022 Yapp Bros white burgundy (2) ever since my socks were blown off by it at last year’s tasting of The Bunch, that coalition of independent merchants of which Yapp Bros is a member. Made by the 100-year-old Cave de Lugny cooperative, it’s as fine a house white burgundy as you’ll find, at as fair a price. With fresh lemon, honey, nuts and cream, it’s a gem.£16.25 per down from £17.25.

The 2022 Domaine Richeaume ‘Tradition Blanc’ (3) is typical Yapp fare, a deliciously welcoming blend of organic old-vine, hand-picked Rolle, Viognier and Grenache Blanc (fermented separately) from the slopes of Mont Saint-Victoire near Aix-en-Provence.

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