When Thailand’s tourist board mistakenly used a photo of West Beach on the Isle of Berneray in Scotland to promote the tropical paradise of Kai Bae Beach, it took a British expat with a keen eye to spot the error.
But perhaps the confusion shouldn’t come as a surprise. With ivory dunes tumbling down to turquoise waters and the occasional chatter of a faraway pod of dolphins, the beaches of Uist, a collection of islands in the Outer Hebrides, could easily be mistaken for some of the most popular bays in the Seychelles or Caribbean. The only giveaways are the brisk breeze that nips your ears and the dearth of other visitors.
The beaches here are regularly voted some of the most beautiful in the world. And yet, despite their undeniable appeal, these islands remain stubbornly off the mainstream tourist map.
Perhaps it is the chilly summertime temperatures (an average of just 15°C in July). Or maybe it’s the nine-hour drive from London to Oban in the Highlands, from where the ferry to South Uist departs. Either way, these enchanting islands are overdue their time in the sun. Here are five reasons why a trip to Uist can rival a beach holiday in the Caribbean or by the Indian Ocean.
Beaches
From hidden coves to endless stretches of sand, from safe swimming spots to a surfer’s paradise, Uist has something for every beach-lover. The area is made up of six islands: Berneray, North Uist, Grimsay, Benbecula, South Uist and Eriskay.
Berneray’s West Beach is considered one of the best – recently taking third place on a Lonely Planet list of Europe’s best beaches (ahead of rivals in Greece, Croatia and Portugal), and of course a favourite with the Thai tourist board. This three-mile stretch of sand is lined by machair grasses which in summer have rare orchids and other wildflowers peeping from them.
Berneray is connected to North Uist by a causeway, meaning you can reach another of the area’s most gorgeous beaches, Clachan Sands, by either a two-hour hike or 15-minute drive.
One for the walkers, Kilpheder on South Uist stretches for 20 miles of uninterrupted sand and sea, while Eriskay Beach is the must-visit for snorkelers. Causeways link all of the islands so it’s easy to hop from one to the next.
And while many holidaymakers plump for the Seychelles because of its isolation (its closest neighbour, Madagascar, is 500 miles away), Uist offers similar seclusion. There are no large-scale hotels, just independent offerings, and it’s a four-hour ferry ride to the mainland.
Wildlife
While you might not get giant tortoises or parrots in the Outer Hebrides, you will find one of Europe’s largest populations of seals, as well as otters aplenty. Common dolphins, porpoise and minke whales are also often spotted – as well as basking sharks if you’re around from July to September, and even the occasional pilot whale.
Companies including Uist Sea Tours and Lady Anne Boat Trips offer sealife-spotting excursions. It’s not just fins you need to keep an eye out for, either – golden eagles are regularly seen gliding overhead, or pairs of antlers sighted among the waves as herds of stags swim from island to island.
Back on dry land, head to Loch Eynort on South Uist for some top-notch seal spotting. Otters, too, can be seen here – your best bet is the two to three hours either side of the high tide.
Food
For many, an unmissable part of any beach holiday is tucking into a plate of freshly-caught seafood. Here, Uist has plenty to rival any of the best coastal destinations as its waters are some of the cleanest in the world. The Hebridean Smokehouse, on North Uist, does a brisk trade in smoked local salmon and scallops. Its speciality is salmon smoked in peat – imparting a robust, aromatic flavour. The whisky barrel oak smoked salmon pâté is also well worth a try.
For raw fish to cook at home, Kallin Shellfish (also on North Uist) is the place. The daily catch varies but typically involves piles of just-caught langoustines, scallops, lobster and crab.
Activities
Aside from island hopping and relaxing on the beach, the Outer Hebrides offers all the activities you could want from a seaside holiday. The sailing and snorkelling are excellent and there’s a community riding school on Benbecula, where you can rent a horse and canter out along the beach (prices start from around £20).
Price
While flights to the Seychelles can set you back £600 or more, the ferry from Oban or Mallaig on the mainland to Lochboisdale, South Uist, costs £126.10 for a return journey with your car, plus a fee of around £20 per passenger.
The accommodation options are comfortable, unpretentious and generally reasonably priced. From £65 per night, you can rent a whole glamping pod on a working croft via Otternish Pods. The wooden cabins are self-catered, sleep up to four and have working kitchens and sea views.
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