Mark Piggott

The surprising appeal of Sweden’s second largest city

  • From Spectator Life
Gothenburg (Alamy)

Sweden is often overlooked as a holiday destination by Brits due to lazy misconceptions about the Scandinavian weather and prices. Yet Swedish summers are arguably more predictable than our own, with average temperatures in the low 20s throughout June, July and August and the food, whether dining at a seaside café or grand hotel, is almost invariably of excellent quality, using local produce, and at prices similar to those back home.

Sweden’s second largest city Gothenburg has typically sat in the shadow of Stockholm as far as international tourists are concerned, but it has much to reward those who are prepared to venture off the beaten track.

As my flight descends toward Gothenburg-Landvetter, the landscape gains definition: forests of pine surround ultramarine lakes whose shores are lined with red and white houses.

With its industrial heritage and trams, Gothenburg is often compared to Manchester, but to me it more closely resembles Liverpool, another proud city with a developed dock and similar sized population, and Amsterdam, thanks to its waterways. Gota canal, a historic waterway that runs between Sweden’s east and west coasts from Gotheburg to Stockholm. The city is clean, prosperous and lively, its streets lined with al fresco cafes and expensive hotels. For nature lovers, it’s also the gateway to a beautiful network of islands – easily explored by bike or canoe.

What to see and do

One of the best ways to see Gothenburg while avoiding the trams is by kayak. Paddling through the tall houses of brick and wood lining the canal banks reveals another side of the city.

Though ostensibly Christian – in Gothenburg you are never far from an impressive Lutheran church – the principal religion of the Swedes seems to be Fika, the afternoon tradition of strong coffee and cake.

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