The Queen has never been one for a beach holiday, but as a young woman she loved spending time on the sun-dappled island of Malta. The then-Princess Elizabeth and Prince Philip stayed on the island regularly just after the Second World War, the newly weds residing at the Villa Guardamangia from 1949 to 1951. They enjoyed being near the sea, visiting the racetrack and being out of the public eye. The Queen is even said to have visited a hairdresser for the first time there. Viewers of The Crown will be familiar with this period, which the Queen and Prince Philip reportedly described as one of the happiest times in their lives.
The currently dilapidated Villa Guardamangia, which is just outside the Maltese capital Valletta, is about to undergo a major renovation and will be turned into a museum. It will be another attraction to add to Malta’s impressive list of ‘things to see’, and with Malta announcing that they will welcome back fully-vaccinated tourists from June, those wishing to follow in royal footsteps for their holidays should get booking asap. Here’s what to put on your itinerary…
Upper Barrakka Gardens
Valletta is perched high up on the Sciberras peninsula and is an awe-inspiring site to behold. The best way to reach the city, which was built in the 16th century by the Knights of St John, is by a five-minute ferry ride from Sliema. You’ll get a great view of the dome of the St John’s Co-Cathedral from the ferry as you approach. Once up in Valletta, go to Upper Barrakka Gardens for a view of the harbour from on high. Prince Philip and the Queen marked their 60th wedding anniversary in 2007 with a return trip to Malta. During a visit to the gardens, they were introduced to other couples celebrating their diamond wedding anniversaries. From here, go for a wander around the place and take in a spectacular range of architecture, from the baroque to the modernist. Valletta is a Unesco World Heritage Site, and although you’ll notice many of the old buildings are in a poor state of repair, recently announced restoration projects will hopefully preserve the place for future generations to marvel at.
Reed’s last stand
For all of Valletta’s historic splendour and regal association, one of the most remarked upon stop offs on its tourist trail is The Pub. Close to the parliament building, it’s an unspectacular boozer famous for the fact that actor Oliver Reed enjoyed his final drinks there before dropping dead. Reed was in Malta filming Gladiator in 1999, and during some downtime visited The Pub to refresh himself. He reportedly put away eight pints of lager, 12 double rums and half a bottle of whiskey during a drinking contest with a group of Royal Navy sailors. He is also said to have taken them on in an arm wrestling competition. After paying for everyone’s drinks, Reed collapsed from a heart attack and died before the ambulance could get him to hospital. So, stop off a pint at The Pub if you want to raise a glass to him in the kind of tribute he’d surely have appreciated.
Caravaggio’s masterpiece
St John’s Co-Cathedral dominates Valletta in a visual sense and is the capital’s most important tourist attraction. The audio tour of this stunning baroque cathedral is worth doing, but really you’ll want to race through it to get to the finale awaiting you in the oratory. The Beheading of St John the Baptist is a huge, shocking and wondrous painting that is not only Caravaggio’s masterpiece, but is also surely one of the greatest achievements in the history of art. For anyone visiting Malta, it is, quite simply, unmissable.
The Phoenicia
When living in Valletta, the then Princess Elizabeth and Prince Phillip would dance in the ballroom of the Hotel Meridien Phoenicia. Renovated and renamed The Phoenicia in 2017 by Scottish hotelier Gordon Campbell Gray, it offers guests who can afford the five star rates the royal treatment. If it’s out of you budget, go there for a drink or dinner in the restaurant overlooking the hotel’s tranquil gardens instead.
Go to Gozo
Away from Valletta, the island of Gozo is a picturesque place to choose as a base for your holiday in Malta, or make a day of it by hopping on the ferry from the mainland (The journey takes about 30 minutes). Spend a morning or afternoon stretched out on the beach at the stunning San Blas Bay, Gozo’s very own little corner of paradise. It’s only accessible on foot via a steep path, so it’s less crowded than some of the island’s other sunspots.
Game of Thrones spotting
While on Gozo, you can also take a stroll along the shore near the rock formation formerly known as the Azure Window. This limestone arch appeared in a number of films and TV shows before it collapsed in 2017. Most famously it was the backdrop to the wedding of Game of Thrones’ answer to the Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh, Daenerys and Khal Drogo, in season one of the HBO series. In fact, numerous locations throughout Malta appear in that first season of GoT. One of the most recognisable is Mdina, and a visit to this ancient walled city should be on your itinerary whether you are a fan of the show or not.
Underground history
Situated just a few miles from Valletta, the Hal Saflieni Hypogeum is one of Malta’s most precious attractions, a prehistoric underground burial site that was discovered in 1902 by construction workers. The site spans three levels and is made up of interconnecting chambers cut into the rock. The earliest remains found in the site date to 4000BC, with the most recent dating to the early Bronze Age. Due to the delicate nature of the Hypogeum, it is open to 10 visitors per hour for a maximum of eight hours a day, so booking ahead is essential. Like Valletta, it is a Unesco World Heritage site, and the Megalthlithic Temples, seven of which are dotted around Malta and Gozo, is another. As well as a visit to the hypogeum, a tour of the temples is essential for anyone with even a passing interest in archaeology and ancient history.
The Blue Lagoon
A ferry or a private boat ride will take you to the tiny Maltese island of Comino and the glorious Blue Lagoon. Hike on the rocky paths and swim in crystal blue waters, but also be aware that if you are visiting during the peak holiday months, the lagoon can get unbearably crowded. As much she loves Malta, the Queen is unlikely to be among the tourist hordes going going for a dip there.
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