Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Wine Club 18 July

issue 18 July 2020

It dawned on me, with a chill, that I probably won’t live to drink the 2019 en primeur clarets that I’ve just forked out a substantial wodge for. It dawned on the considerably younger Mrs Ray, too, now busy earmarking which bottle to drink with whom as she throws aside her widow’s weeds and dances until dawn. It’s nice to know I’ll be missed.

The consensus is that 2019 was a stellar vintage in Bordeaux. It’s expected to be a long-lived one too and poor saps of my own vintage (1960 — a dreadful year) will sadly miss the big-boned beauties in their pomp.

All the more reason, then, to make the most of this fabulous offer of drinking clarets from Bordeaux specialists Corney & Barrow. Head of Merchant Sales James Franklin and I worked selflessly to come up with four different vintages, six different appellations and eight different wines. Oh, and we’ve a bonus box of dry white Bordeaux too. Don’t say we don’t try.

A fabulous selection of mature clarets for current drinking

The 2012 Ch. Balac (1) is a fully ripe Cru Bourgeois from the Haut-Médoc. Although a Left Bank wine, its Merlot content is high and, after 12 months in oak and a long slumber in bottle, it’s perfectly poised. It’s richly fruity, soft, slightly earthy but fresh with a touch of herbs and spice on the finish. £11.33 down from £12.95.

The 2012 Ch. du Grand Chambellan (2) is from Lalande-de-Pomerol, a Right Bank commune that all too often gets overlooked in the stampede to proud Pomerol itself. There’s great value to be found here, as can be seen by this corker: succulent, rich, with plenty of dark plum/damson fruit and soft, elegant tannins. £15.71 down from £17.95.

The 2014 Ch. Montlandrie (3) from the Côtes De Castillon was transformed by the much-mourned Denis Durantou, who died in May. DD famously took Ch. L’Eglise de Clinet in Pomerol from nothing to star status and this silky smooth, Merlot-rich beauty is a steal considering its pedigree. £13.78 down from £15.75.

And talking of pedigree, the 2014 Prélude à Grand-Puy Ducasse (4) from Pauillac has a fine one, being the second wine of Fifth Growth Ch. G-PD itself. Only estate-grown Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are used and the resulting wine is richly nuanced with plenty of ripe cassis notes and elegant tannins. £22.97 down from £26.25.

The 2016 C&B Company Reserve Claret (5) is blended by C&B’s buyers in cahoots with mighty Maison Sichel. Merlot-dominant, it’s soft, juicy and approachable and is designed to be knocked back with delight rather than fussed and agonised over. £12.21 down from £13.95.

The 2016 Ch. La Courolle (6) from Montagne Saint-Emilion is similarly approachable and its soft, velvety texture and luscious, fresh blackcurrant fruit is instantly appealing. I love it. £13.56 down from £15.50.

And as if the above treats weren’t enough, I persuaded J. Franklin to open the cellar door just a crack more and managed to nab a brace of pitch perfect Pomerols: the 2014 Ch. La Grave (7) and the 2015 Ch. Lagrange (8), both in glorious form, being dense, concentrated, vibrantly fresh and succulent. Both are from the fabled Établissements Jean-Pierre Moueix stable (think Bélair-Monange and Trotanoy) and both are £29.67, down from £33.95.

Finally, for lovers of dry white Bordeaux we’ve the commendably easy-going 2018 Ch. La Fleur des Graves Blanc (9), a
Sauvignon Blanc/Sémillon blend from the Entre-deux-Mers that’s perfect for summer. £11.67 down from £13.50.

The Everyday Claret Box has two bottles each of wines 1-6 and the Fancy Claret Box has six bottles each of wines 7 and 8. Delivery, as ever, is free to mainland UK for a case or more.

Order now.

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