Chateau Musar is beloved of Spectator readers, thanks largely to my sainted predecessors — Messrs Waugh and Hoggart — both of whom adored its wines. As a result, the Speccie has forged a bond with this Lebanese winery and, owing to the diplomatic exertions of our partners at Mr Wheeler, we are in the enviable position of being able to offer the latest Musar vintages exclusively to readers before anyone else has even had a sniff or a whiff of them.
The 2010 Chateau Musar White (1) is nothing if not quirky, produced from ungrafted old vines grown in the Bekaa Valley that were first planted almost 5,000 years ago. A blend of Obaideh and Merwah (and when did you last bump into them?), it’s fermented and aged partly in oak and partly in stainless steel. There’s lemony, Sémillon-like fruit on the palate, a white Rhône-like peachiness and a touch of oxidative savouriness on the finish. I would be lying if I didn’t say that it’s an acquired taste, but if you’re bored by the ubiquity of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc and crave something different, it’s a taste worth acquiring. £23 down from £25.50.
The 2016 Musar Jeune Red (2) is an equal blend of organic, old vine Cinsault and Syrah with a touch of added Cabernet Sauvignon. Being fermented and matured in concrete vats, it sees no oak at all and is easy-going with fresh, lively, dark bramble fruit and a long savoury finish. Thinking ahead, it would make a great summer barbecue wine. £11.25 down from £12.75.
The 2016 Hochar Père et Fils Red (3) is noticeably more complex than the above. A single estate wine, it’s a blend of old vine Cinsault, Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon aged in French oak for six months.
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