Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Wine Club 20 November

issue 20 November 2021

So I’ve had my booster jab — hurrah! — and if it wasn’t for my early-onset CADDAD (Christmas Affected Doom, Depression and Despondency) I’d be raring to go. As it is, though, I seem to be en route to the Depths of Gloom via Lowest Point and a change at Rock Bottom. The blasted carols have been on a loop in our local supermarket seemingly for weeks and I shudder at the jingle of every bell.

Happily, though, this splendid offer of nine impeccable clarets from our chums at FromVineyardsDirect has put the spring back in my step. After our two recent bumper offers of Burgundy, it seemed only right to go for some similarly toothsome red Bordeaux and I reckon we have come up trumps with wines from 2010 and 2016. Both were stellar, 10/10 vintages. The 2010s are at their peak while the 2016s will appeal to those who appreciate slightly more youthful claret.

The 2010 Château Laroche Bel Air (1) from the Côtes de Bordeaux is a Merlot-rich, oak-aged blend that begs to be drunk. The nose might be a touch reserved but there is plenty of ripe, luscious fresh and cooked fruit on the palate with hints of vanilla and liquorice on the finish. Delicious! £15.75 down from £16.95.

It’s a cast-iron belter at a derisory price

Released only when deemed ready to drink, the 2010 Château Ramafort (2) is in cracking form. The Cru Bourgeois estate, whose vineyards and 13th-century château lie on the highest plateau of the Médoc, just north of St Estèphe, once belonged to Château Lafite, and precision here is everything. A 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the wine’s crammed with ripe briary fruit and is so soft in the mouth, so succulent and just so satisfying. £17.50 down from £18.95.

The 2010 Château Carcanieux (3) is another head-turning Cru Bourgeois. Why go for the big names when you can go for this? A deep brownish red, it boasts a nose of quite delightful mellow autumn fruit matched in the mouth by a mix of fresh redcurrants, blackcurrants and lightly poached plums. It’s serious claret for a crazy price. £17.50 down from £18.95.

We’ve offered the previous vintage of the 2016 Petite Sirène (4) before and sold out our allocation each time. And little wonder, for it’s fantastic value for what is the third wine of Château Giscours, the fabled 3ième Cru of Margaux (and home, incidentally, to the Bordeaux Giscours Cricket Club). With hints of roses on the nose and dark, rounded spicy fruit on the palate, it makes a very easy-going lunch wine. £12.00 down from £12.95.

The 2016 Château de Clotte (5) from Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux is my wine of the offer. I had it marked down for at least twice the price, so classic and sophisticated is it. With intense, ripe, fresh and bitter cherries in the mouth and sweet and savoury spice, its finish goes on and on. It’s a cast-iron belter at a derisory price. £12.00 down from £12.95.

The 2016 Château Belle-Vue (6) from the south of the Haut-Médoc was classified as Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel in 2018 and is noted for its unusually high percentage of Petit Verdot in its blends (20 per cent in this incarnation). Rich, ripe and rewarding, with remarkable concentration, it’s bang on song now but will last for many a year. £21.00 down from £22.95.

Finally, with dread Christmas in mind, we’ve the Connoisseur’s case, a wooden box comprising two bottles each of 2009 Marquis de Calon (St Estephe), 2010 Château Siran (Margaux) and 2015 Château d’Aiguilhe (Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux). All three wines are in storming form — great vintages, great pedigree — and would make a handsome gift or indispensable addition to the festive board.

The mixed case has two bottles each of wines 1-6 while the Connoisseur’s case contains a half-dozen, as above. Delivery, as ever, is free.

Order today.

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