Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Wine Club 22 October

issue 22 October 2016

We have six real treats this week: three from Italy and three from Spain. I would have been happy with almost any of the wines that Private Cellar’s Laura Taylor put up and those that didn’t make my final six only just missed out by inches. And, in the face of a plunging pound, Laura has done her very best with the discounts. Thanks, Laura — every little helps!

I simply cannot remember when I last drank — let along bought — any Soave. In the late 1970s, Soave was a staple in every wine bar along with Muscadet, Beaujolais Nouveau and those raffia-covered Chianti flasks. It was OK, but dull, dull, dull. Not sure I’ve had any since. I therefore had the lowest of low expectations when the 2015 Soave Gregoris, Antonio Fattori (1) was thrust under my beak. But, goodness, more fool me: it’s a cracker, as decent a sub-ten-quid white as I’ve had in ages. Smooth, supple, rounded and creamy, it has hints of fresh peach and pear and a beautifully judged acidity. It’s a real standout wine and God knows I never thought I’d ever say that about Soave. £9.20 down from £9.65.

On the other hand, I’ve always enjoyed Vermentino and the 2015 Marmora Vermentino (2) from Sardinia — the grape’s heartland — is well up there with the best I’ve had. Produced by the exemplary Cantina del Vermentino in the north-east of the island on granite soil high in the hills, it’s a little beauty. Fresh, zesty and succulent with decent weight and a fine minerality, it’s ideal apéritif material with enough oomph to enjoy with food. £9.50 down from £9.90.

The 2015 Albariño Robaliño (3) comes from the small Señorío de Rubiós collective in Rías Baixas in Galicia in the far north-west of Spain.

GIF Image

Disagree with half of it, enjoy reading all of it

TRY 3 MONTHS FOR $5
Our magazine articles are for subscribers only. Start your 3-month trial today for just $5 and subscribe to more than one view

Comments

Join the debate for just $5 for 3 months

Be part of the conversation with other Spectator readers by getting your first three months for $5.

Already a subscriber? Log in