Wine Club 23 May

I admit it freely: I’m a lockdown lush. There, I’ve said it. I simply can’t help but be undone by the siren call of the corkscrew which — during these dark times — comes earlier each day.

And, judging by the titanic quantities of vino I see knocked back during my early evening Zoom calls with fellow sots, I’m not alone. Indeed, it’s clearly impossible for folk to hear the word ‘Zoom’ without reaching automatically for well-chilled Fino or Sauvignon Blanc. Talk about Pavlov’s blooming dog.

Anyway, in the absence of any convenient mast to be strapped to, I’m glorying in my weakness and have brought forward uncorking time from 7 p.m. to 6 p.m.

It was Mrs Ray’s idea. She said that since wine is so obviously good for both our mental and physical wellbeing (when taken in moderation of course), it makes sense to start our medication earlier than usual so long as I promise to pace my doses more sensibly and to stop with the post-drinking remorse already. After all, she says, the good Lord would surely not have invented wine if He didn’t want us to be happy.

Hurrah, then, for this seductively tasty selection from our newest partners in the Speccie Wine Club — Honest Grapes — and two great names of French winemaking: Jean-Michel Cazes and Jonathan Maltus.

The 2019 Domaine de L’Ostal Blanc (1) is produced by the Cazes family (you know, the owners of Ch. Lynch-Bages) from their estate in the Languedoc. Created from 100 per cent Viognier from the coolest of their vineyards, it spends time on its lees for added depth and complexity. Although full of typical peach ’n’ apricot notes, it’s bone dry on the finish and deeply refreshing.