Wine Club 23 May

I admit it freely: I’m a lockdown lush. There, I’ve said it. I simply can’t help but be undone by the siren call of the corkscrew which — during these dark times — comes earlier each day.

And, judging by the titanic quantities of vino I see knocked back during my early evening Zoom calls with fellow sots, I’m not alone. Indeed, it’s clearly impossible for folk to hear the word ‘Zoom’ without reaching automatically for well-chilled Fino or Sauvignon Blanc. Talk about Pavlov’s blooming dog.

Anyway, in the absence of any convenient mast to be strapped to, I’m glorying in my weakness and have brought forward uncorking time from 7 p.m. to 6 p.m.

It was Mrs Ray’s idea. She said that since wine is so obviously good for both our mental and physical wellbeing (when taken in moderation of course), it makes sense to start our medication earlier than usual so long as I promise to pace my doses more sensibly and to stop with the post-drinking remorse already. After all, she says, the good Lord would surely not have invented wine if He didn’t want us to be happy.

Hurrah, then, for this seductively tasty selection from our newest partners in the Speccie Wine Club — Honest Grapes — and two great names of French winemaking: Jean-Michel Cazes and Jonathan Maltus.

The 2019 Domaine de L’Ostal Blanc (1) is produced by the Cazes family (you know, the owners of Ch. Lynch-Bages) from their estate in the Languedoc. Created from 100 per cent Viognier from the coolest of their vineyards, it spends time on its lees for added depth and complexity. Although full of typical peach ’n’ apricot notes, it’s bone dry on the finish and deeply refreshing. £12.40 down from £13.40.

The 2018 Pézat Blanc (2) is an 80 per cent Sauvignon Blanc and 20 per cent Muscadelle blend from the vineyards which surround Jonathan Maltus’s cult Le Nardian project in Bordeaux. Harvested at night to preserve its freshness, the wine is lemony, lively and zesty and, with its long dry finish, makes a fine and blessedly uncomplicated aperitif when served well-chilled. £13 down from £14.

Its Provençal sister, the 2019 Pézat Rosé (3), is produced in the Var commune of Flassans-sur-Issole, the name derived from the Latin flatus sanus meaning clean air, and I’ll leave the inevitable and multiple jokes to you, thank you very much. A typical blend of Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault, it’s full of wild strawberries and cherries and, backed by a sophisticated dry finish, has more character than its palest of pink hues would suggest. £15.40 down from £16.40.

The 2019 La Belle Etoile ‘Décadence’ Merlot (4) is an easy-going quaffing red from the Languedoc. With plenty of bramble fruit jam on the nose, lots of forward, juicy fruit in the mouth and just a touch of tannin, it slips down easily and is really rather jolly. £12 down from £13.

The 2016 Lacroix (5) is so-named thanks to the stone cross that stands at the entrance to Jonathan Maltus’s celebrated St Emilion estate, Ch Teyssier. A Bordeaux Supérieur blend of Merlot, Cab Sauv and Cab Franc, it’s full of ripe, plummy fruit with a touch of cedar and spice and is what JM (unique, I’m sure, in boasting both an OBE and a perfect 100-point score from Uncle Bob Parker) drinks at home. £13.30 down from £14.30.

Finally, the 2015 Cuvée Constance Rouge, Thunevin-Calvet (6) is a hearty Côtes du Roussillon Villages and right up my street. A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan, it received a 91 point score from Wine Advocate and is rich, concentrated, dark, spicy and intense with fine acidity and a tongue-coatingly long, savoury finish. If barbecues are your thing, this is what to drink alongside. £16.40 down from £17.40.

The mixed dozen has two bottles of each wine and delivery, as ever, is free.

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