We all have our own ways of getting through these dark days. I might have put on a shed-load — nay, a detached-garage-with-a-two-bed-flat-upstairs-load — of weight during lockdown, but my strategy of eschewing all social Zoom calls in favour of ringing two chums a day for a natter and seeing one chum a day for a wander has certainly helped my mental how-d’you-do. Well, that and knocking back one bottle of vino a day too. Human contact and a handy corkscrew are crucial.
And so Monday — with outdoor gatherings of either six people or two households finally permitted — can’t come fast enough. I’m beyond excited and dream constantly about whom I plan to see (everyone) and what I plan to drink (everything).
The Spectator Wine Club is here to help. Indeed, your happiness is our top priority, so if you’re struggling with what to uncork on Monday, look no further than this delectable selection from Burgundy’s Albert Bichot.
These are comfort wines, reassuringly familiar in their provenance yet quite thrilling in their execution
These are comfort wines, reassuringly familiar in their provenance yet quite thrilling in their execution, and it has been a complete joy to taste Bichot’s range — courtesy of Honest Grapes — and to choose the following extremely tasty, generously discounted half-dozen.
Producer/négociant Maison Albert Bichot was founded in Beaune in 1831 and remains family-owned, with Albéric Bichot currently at the helm. Despite being a significant player in Burgundy (it’s the leading buyer at the celebrated Hospices de Beaune auction), Maison AB leads the way in sustainability and manages to maintain the ethos and accessibility of a much smaller artisanal grower. Honest Grapes’s Tom Harrow points to a humility and attention to detail that you don’t always find with big producers, and he’s spot on.
The 2019 Albert Bichot, Mâcon-Lugny ‘Les Charmes’ (1) is a cracking place to start. Made in the heart of the Maconnais from 100 per cent Chardonnay, it spends eight months in oak and is deliciously inviting with fresh citrus notes, creamy peach/apple flavours and a long mineral finish. It’s as fine a sub-£15 white burgundy as you’ll find: £14.90 down from £16.40.
The village of Viré-Clessé is only a few clicks from Lugny and the 2018 Albert Bichot, Viré-Clessé (2) boasts the same limestone-influenced freshness. A short time in oak adds a touch of weight to the concentrated lemony fruit and, with its long, faintly honeyed finish, it makes for a great glass of wine. £16.00 down from £17.50.
The 2019 Albert Bichot, Chablis (3) spent ten months on its lees but saw no oak at all. Again, there’s a vibrant freshness to the crunchy apple and pear fruit and a keen acidity, and with its sophisticated mineral core it hints at something far loftier than its humble Chablis AOC classification. £16.90 down from £18.40.
The 2019 Albert Bichot, Brouilly ‘Roche Rose’ (4) shows just how tasty fine Cru Beaujolais can be. Forget the naff bubble-gum that is Bojolly Noovo and relish the depth, concentration and juicy joy of this spicy, cherry-ripe beauty from Brouilly. £14.70 down from £16.20.
The 2019 Albert Bichot, Fleurie ‘La Madone’ (5) from a perfectly sited single vineyard is just so lovely and you’ll lap up the aromatic, succulent, fleshy Gamay fruit. I even chilled it a bit which, it being quite light, worked well. Not for nothing is Fleurie known as the Queen of Beaujolais. £14.90 down from £16.40.
Finally, the 2018 Albert Bichot, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits (6), a Pinot Noir of real character from the International Wine Challenge’s 2017 Red Winemaker of the Year. The grapes ripen slowly here on the slopes to the west of the Côtes de Nuits, and there’s a noticeable concentration to the fresh, lively fruit and a lovely savoury finish to each mouthful. £18.60 down from £20.10. Enjoy!
The mixed case has two bottles of each wine and delivery, as ever, is free.
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