Spring wouldn’t be spring without our annual offer from Chateau Musar, that extraordinary Lebanese winery that is the epitome of triumph over adversity. As readers well know, Auberon Waugh and Simon Hoggart — my late, great predecessors as Custodian of the Corkscrew for The Spectator — were huge fans of Chateau Musar and I, too, have long been smitten.
Indeed, I’m sure that Fraser’s chief concern on handing me the key to the Speccie’s cellar was that I was as sound on Musar as those who had worn the mighty chain of office before me had been. Well, he needn’t have worried. I love mighty Musar and know how much our readers do too. Thanks to Mark Cronshaw of Mr. Wheeler, we’ve a fine selection here.
The 2018 Musar Jeune White (1) is Musar’s entry level vino, a tasty blend of Viognier, Vermentino and Chardonnay from vineyards deep in the Bekaa Valley. Unoaked, it’s crisp, clean, fresh and just that little bit different. £12.25 down from £13.75.
This extraordinary Lebanese winery is the epitome of triumph over adversity
The 2018 Musar Jeune Rosé (2) is similarly easy-going. Blended from Cinsault and Mourvèdre, it’s a glorious salmon pink and delectably fresh and enticing, with lively wild strawberry notes and a whisper of spice. £11.50 down from £12.75.
The 2018 Musar Jeune Red (3) is a soft, fresh, juicy mix of Cinsault, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, designed to be enjoyed in its youth with little fanfare. Just knock it back and enjoy. £11.50 down from £12.75.
I’ll be the first to admit that the 2012 Ch. Musar White (4) is something of an acquired taste, being as it is a blend of Obaideh and Merwah, which sound more like Old Testament prophets than they do ancient indigenous grape varieties. Fermented and aged in oak, the wine is peachy, lemony and creamy and if it’s like anything at all, it’s like a fine white Rhône. £25 down from £26.50.
The 2017 Hochar Père et Fils (5) is a single vineyard red made from old vine Cinsault, Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon grown at 1,000 metres above sea level. The result is a wine of power, concentration, richness and freshness, full of plums, damsons, herbs and spices. £14.75 down from £16.50. For those who like to make a statement, the excellent 2015 Hochar Père et Fils (6) is available in magnum at £40, down from £45.
The estate only releases its grand vin when it’s deemed ready to drink and this is the first time that the 2013 Chateau Musar (7) has been offered. A typical sweet/savoury/spicy blend of Cinsault, Carignan and Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s exclusive to readers of The Spectator until April, when it will be offered more widely and more expensively. Fill your boots! £24.75 down from £28. (Magnums, jeroboams and imperials are also available: call Mark Cronshaw on 01206 713560 if interested.)
We’ve offered the 2000 Chateau Musar (8) before and Monsieur Hoggart lapped it up, praising its ‘soft, velvety, peppery, spicy, earthy even chocolaty quality’ on its release in 2007. The years have been kind and there is even more sweet fruit to the fore and succulence on the finish. Offered direct from the chateau at £30.
Finally, the 1997 Chateau Musar (9), of which little remains. It’s showing well for its age but needs drinking up. Relish its sweet fruit, savoury edge and mellow softness and marvel at the magic that is Musar. Just £34.
The Musar Collection has two bottles each of the 2000 Ch. Musar, 2013 Ch. Musar, 2017 Hochar Red and 2018 Musar Jeune Red and one bottle each of the 1997 Ch. Musar, 2012 Ch. Musar White, 2018 Musar Jeune White and 2018 Musar Jeune Rosé.
The Musar Vintage Collection contains four bottles each of the 1997, 2000 and 2013 Ch. Musar. Delivery, as ever, is free.
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