Jonathan Ray

Wine Club 4 September

Wine Club 4 September
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My longed-for trips to Greece and Spain are booked, England thumped India in the third Test, Spurs are top of the league (and Arsenal are bottom, that’s to say last, 20th out of 20, the back marker), and, having long abandoned any attempts at Alcohol-Free August, I’ve been drinking the wines of mighty Mas de Daumas Gassac all week courtesy of our friends at Honest Grapes.

I can hardly stop grinning.

M de DG is generally acknowledged to be the ‘Lafite of the Languedoc’ and if you’re new to its remarkable wines, crikey, you’re in for a treat. I envy you discovering them for the first time.

The 2020 Moulin de Gassac Picpoul de Pinet (1) is as fine an example of this increasingly trendy grape/wine as you’ll find. Crisp, lively and inviting, it’s deliciously rounded in the mouth, slightly salty on the finish and deeply refreshing. £12.90 down from £13.90.

The 2020 Pont de Gassac White (2) is a fascinating blend of Vermentino, Chardonnay, Viognier and Colombard. It gives little away on the nose but is mouth-wateringly creamy and herbal in the mouth and, although delicate, has weight on the finish. £15.40 down from £16.40.

The 2020 Moulin de Gassac Tèrra White (3) is made from Vermentino, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne and is richly flavoured, herbal, honeyed, lively and fresh. It has a decadently velvety finish too and I love it. £16.00 down from £17.00.

The 2020 Moulin de Gassac Syrah (4) is simple fare but spot on, part of the entry level varietal range. A rich purple, it’s gloriously juicy and jammy with plush ripe blackberry fruit, a touch of spice and tannin, fine acidity and a subtle savouriness. £10.50 down from £11.50.

The 2019 Pont de Gassac Red (5) is a soft, smooth blend of Syrah, Cabernet, Merlot and Carignan. Rich ’n’ ripe, it’s also exuberantly fresh thanks to ten months in steel rather than oak and it was no surprise to learn it won a gong at the Decanter World Wine Awards. £15.40 down from £16.40.

The 2020 Moulin de Gassac Tèrra Red (6) — part of the estate’s organic range — is made from Syrah, Grenache and Carignan. It’s full of concentrated dark fruit and boasts that trademark Gassac freshness along with suggestions of herbs and spice. £16.00 down from £17.00.

These wines all appear in the Moulin de Gassac Case. If you fancy treating yourself and trading up a touch, then the following bottles — which make up the Luxury Gassac Case — are for you.

The 2020 Mas de Daumas Gassac Rosé Frizant (7) is a ridiculous — and ridiculously tasty — blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvèdre, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Petit Manseng and Muscat produced by the Charmat Method (as used to make prosecco). It is wickedly seductive with its joyful pink hue, enticing effervescence, fresh wild strawberry fruit and long dry finish, and I could barely keep my hands off it. £22.10 down from £23.10.

The 2020 Mas de Daumas Gassac White (8) is so complex it’s hard to pin down what makes me love it. Blended chiefly from Viognier, Petit Manseng and Chardonnay, it also boasts another dozen varieties including Amigne, Tchilar, Khondorni and Neheleschol (nope, nor me). Despite a gorgeous hit of fresh apricot, baked apple and quince in the mouth, it finishes perfectly dry and just goes on and on. £38.50 down from £39.50.

The 2019 Mas de Daumas Gassac Red (9) is similarly intricate and audacious, the Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend including 20 or so other varieties in its make-up. Soft, supple and juicy, its dark fruit leads to a distant finish that manages to be both savoury and chocolaty. £38.50 down from £39.50.

The Moulin de Gassac Case has two bottles each of wines 1-6. The Luxury Gassac Case has two bottles each of wines 7-9.

Delivery, as ever, is free.

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Written byJonathan Ray

Jonathan Ray is the Spectator's wine editor.

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