Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Wine Club 5 December

issue 05 December 2020

Our squabbles at home about Christmas are as traditional for us as carol-singing, roast turkey and stockings are for others. Our current standoff concerns the tree.

Our boys think a plastic one is most environmentally friendly. Yes, they argue, ultimately it will go to landfill, but it’s reusable, will last for decades and doesn’t necessitate a real tree being felled. But, says Mrs Ray, creating plastic is a no-no, and think of the environmental costs of its delivery from China.

Divide, conquer and I hate Christmas are my middle names, so I sat back, let them exhaust themselves quarrelling before landing my killer blow: what about no tree? Hmm, I hadn’t fully appreciated what a unifying call to arms this would be and was rather thrown when they turned on me as one: ‘No tree?! You’re pathetic!’

Ouch. Happily, I had the following own-label selection from Corney & Barrow to console me and what joyful, uplifting wines they are too.

The C&B Sparkling Blanc de Blancs Extra Dry NV (1) is a traditional method fizz of real style and substance produced for Corney’s by Boisset, based in the heart of Burgundy. There’s crunchy apple freshness, a touch of toasty brioche and a deliciously fine mousse. I’ve had many a less good champagne. £11.81 down from £13.50.

The 2019 C&B Blanc (2) is the perfect crowd-pleaser. Produced in Gascony from Colombard and Ugni Blanc, it’s light, fruity and inviting with a refreshingly dry to off-dry finish. £6.96 down from £7.95.

The 2018 C&B Bourgogne Chardonnay (3), produced by the fabled François Carillon, is Puligny-Montrachet in all but name and, as such, an absolute bargain. With fresh, peachy fruit, a touch of blossom and a tight mineral core, it’s completely gorgeous and, with fewer than 250 cases made, rare too.

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