Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Wine Club 6 June

issue 06 June 2020

What did you do during the great lockdown, Daddy? Well, son, I grew a beard, watched all 264 episodes of Frasier and became a raging inebriate. Well, I didn’t so much grow a beard deliberately as do nothing to stop it sprouting. And while I fully intend to see the whole Frasier canon chronologically, I have only reached episode 149 thus far. As for the vino, since I’m still just managing to stick to a strict 6 p.m. uncorking time, I claim I’m not a complete soak, toper or dipso.

That’s not to say I don’t obsess all day about what I’m going to drink in the evening because I do, just as I fuss about what’s for dinner the minute I clear breakfast away. Anyway, given that we’re in the midst of a rather strange 2019 Bordeaux en primeur campaign, we should really be thinking of claret but since nobody seems to have tasted any samples, how the heck do we know what to buy? Far better, I say, to stick to Burgundy and to fill one’s boots with this stellar offer from Mr Wheeler.

A stunning selection of Burgundies from Louis Latour including a limited edition Spectator exclusive

Maison Louis Latour is a titan of Burgundy and has been making wine there since 1797. It remains family-owned and run, with 11th generation Louis-Fabrice Latour at the helm. The company’s 50 hectares (which include more Grand Cru vineyards than anyone else) are farmed sustainably and it uses organic preparations where it can, makes its own compost and ploughs many of its vineyards by horse. The proof, though, is in the bottle and I’ve long been a sucker for MLL’s wines.

We start with the 2018 Louis Latour Mâcon-Lugny ‘Les Genièvres’ (1), everyone’s favourite entry-level white Burgundy. Its red counterpart, the 2018 Louis Latour Pinot Noir ‘Les Pierres Dorées’ (5), is similarly accessible and tasty.

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