Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Wine Club 8 December

Being a veritable martyr to Christmas Affected Doom, Depression and Despondency, I admit to feeling far from chipper. My wife says I should grow up and stop being so bloody grumpy and my boys bait me constantly by whistling ‘I Saw Mommy Kissing Santa Claus’ and wishing me a cool Yule. Sigh.

I’ve since locked myself away to self-medicate. I started with this very tasty selection from Mr Wheeler and I strongly suggest that you do too.

Thanks to a couple of jolly jaunts to Spain, I’ve rekindled my fondness for the country’s vino, particularly the whites, and the 2017 Bodegas Aquitania Albarino ‘Bernon’ (1) is right up my street. 100 per cent Albariño from Rías Baixas in Spain’s far north-west, it’s fresh, citrusy and creamy and instantly inviting. It has weight, body and none of that annoying spritziness that many cheap Albariños have and it’s a perfect aperitif or partner to fishy first courses. £11.50 down from £12.50.

The 2016 Michel et Sylvain Tête, Domaine du Clos du Fief Bourgogne Blanc (2) is delicious and quirky, being a Chardonnay of real style from the heart of Beaujolais, where almost all the production is red. Burgundy-born and bred and New Zealand-trained, Sylvain Tête makes wines of signal purity and character and if this was from the Côte d’Or, you’d pay half as much again. I’m definitely going to snap up a case. £13.50 down from £15.

The 2017 François Millet Sancerre (3) from fifth generation vigneron Francois Millet, is charming. I’ve probably sunk far too many New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs of late and unhinged my palate because I often find Sancerres too darn mineral and austere. This is anything but. Yes, there’s a mineral core but there is richness and ripeness as well and an exhilarating freshness.

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