I woke this morning to find blossom on our cherry tree. For a few blissful seconds I thought it was spring and that I’d slept through Christmas. The sun was shining, the birds were singing and I felt faint with joy. But reality – and Christmas Affected Doom, Depression and Despondency – soon kicked in: we’re still on the road to Noël.
At least that means fine wine is still to be had. This peach-laden offer from Yapp Bros is our last but one this year. Do get stuck in.
Quincy, in the Loire Valley, is the second oldest AOC in France and the 2021 Domaine des Bruniers Quincy (1) is the only wine that producer Jerôme de la Chaise makes. Pure Sauvignon Blanc, it has heady elderflower and nettles on the nose and a long, refreshingly dry gooseberry finish. It’s hugely enjoyable and cracking value compared with better-known Sancerre or Pouilly Fumé. £14.95 down from £15.95.
The 2021 Ch. La Canorgue Blanc (2) is from a gorgeous estate in Provence, made famous as the setting of A Good Year starring Russell Crowe. A shockingly awful romcom, its only highlight is a droll cameo by Tom Hollander, who gets all the best lines. Dire though the film is, the wine is spot on. A delectable blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Clairette and Bourboulenc, it’s crisp, creamy and fruity with heaps of seductive peach, apricot, citrus and herbs. £16.75 down from £17.75.
Get stuck in to this peach-laden offer from Yapp Bros
The 2020 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt ‘Alte Reben’ Riesling Trocken (3), from a 650-year-old family-run estate in the Mosel, Germany, is lovely, full of fresh green apples and just a hint of honey. It’s deeply refreshing and so light on its feet. Fine, dry, easy-going, crowd-pleasing, lowish-alcohol German Riesling as beguiling as this should be in everyone’s fridge. £19.50
down from £21.50.
The 2016 Domaine Saint Gayan ‘Ilex’ Rasteau (4) was my pick of the pops at a recent tasting of The Bunch, that loose confederation of leading independent wine merchants of which Yapp Bros is a founder. A blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah, it’s full, rich, juicy and spicy and such good quality that I guessed it to be at least twenty quid. Quelle bonne affaire! £14.75 down from £15.75.
The 2019 Domaine de Fa Beaujolais ‘En Besset’ (6) is a curiosity, a fine (organic) Beaujolais made by Rhône winemakers, namely Antoine and Maxime Graillot, sons of fabled Alain whose wines I love. Produced from single vineyard Gamay, it’s joyfully drinkable with masses of juicy bramble fruit and the gentlest of tannins. There’s an underlying earthiness, too, which only adds to its youthful charm. £16.50 down from £17.50.
I tasted the 2018 Domaine Léon Beyer Coeur de Chasse Pinot Noir (5) on its release a few weeks ago with mighty Marc Beyer himself and was completely smitten. With the wine I mean, rather than Marc, warm, witty and charming though he is. I’ve long banged on about the joys of Alsace Pinot and this is as good as I’ve had. Indeed, if you don’t like it, well, I doubt you like Pinot Noir at all. It’s astoundingly fine and with decent red Burgundy almost impossible to find, especially at a price we can afford, this should be in everyone’s crosshairs. £28 down from £30.
Finally, a festive treat for you or a loved one, a trio of reds from what I can only term Rhône royalty, the stellar cellars of Chave, Clape and Père Caboche. One bottle each of 2018 Jean-Louis Chave Sélection ‘Farconnet’ Hermitage Rouge, 2018 Domaine Clape ‘Renaissance’ Cornas, 2020 Domaine du Père Caboche ‘Elisabeth Chambellan’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape (7), delivered in wooden presentation case for £165. This is what I’d like to see waiting for me under the tree, all wrapped and ready. Hint hint, Mrs Ray.
The mixed case has two bottles each of wines 1-6 and delivery, as ever, is free.
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