Lunch at the Academy Club with my wicked chums Mark Slemeck and Charlie Grey was probably not the best preparation for tasting a dozen or so wines for this offer from Corney & Barrow.
Mark likes his wine but likes his caipirinhas better and Charlie is more of a Pinot Grigio/Newcastle Brown Ale kind of guy. They both made deep inroads into the academy’s list though, declaring each bottle better than the last as they eyed up their next selection. It was a relief when we got booted out and I finally managed to give the boys the slip as they tottered off to the Groucho Club for post-prandials and mischief.
I kept my hangover at bay tasting these wonderful wines below and was well into my second wind by the time I got to the Sancerre. I think you’ll agree that it’s a pretty fine selection.
There’s a lot of rubbish Picpoul out there, but the 2024 Maison Azan Picpoul de Pinet (1) is anything but. Exclusive to C&B, it’s made by Olivier Azan, the first in the region to farm/produce wine organically, and I love it. Fresh, creamy, herbal with a hint, perhaps, of melon and slightly salty, it’s delightfully easy-going. £11.93 down from £13.25.
The 2024 Weingut Frank Grüner Veltliner (2) is a bang-on example of this most food-friendly of grapes/wines, from tenth generation winemaker Harald Frank in Herrnbaumgarten, Weinviertel, north-east Austria. With plenty of citrus, fresh apple and a touch of spicy pepper (Grüner is known here as ‘pfefferl’ or ‘little peppery one’), it’s crisp, clean, fresh and extremely enticing. £13.46 down from £14.95.
The 2024 Pazo la Maza Albariño (3) from the most southerly part of Rías Baixas, close to Portugal, is as tasty an Albariño as you’ll find. Much less acidic and much peachier than others I’ve had of late, it’s thoroughly enjoyable and, at just 12% vol, it’s a perfect Wednesday wine. £14.36 down from £15.95.
The delectable, organic/biodynamic 2023 Sancerre Domaine du Nozay (4) is sheer class, produced by former paratrooper, Cyril de Benoist, nephew of Aubert de Villaine, former co-manager of Domaine de Romanée-Conti no less. Rounded and full, with grapefruit, peach and pear, I can’t imagine anyone not lapping it up. £23.36 down from £25.95.
The 2024 Intipalka Tannat (5) is included not because it’s fun to have something from Peru, nor because – as anyone who’s read Professor Roger Corder’s Wine Diet knows – there’s evidence to suggest the moderate consumption of South American Tannat is good for the heart. No, it’s included because it’s darn good – full, rich, concentrated and succulent, with dark bramble fruit lifted by a refreshing acidity. £11.48 down from £12.75.
The 2022 Les Villaises Saumur Champigny (6) is a great summer wine. Made from 100 per cent Cab Franc by the excellent 80-year-old, 40-grower-strong Caves de Saumur co-operative, it can stand a bit of chilling and is full of lively red and dark berry fruit, fine acidity and, above all, freshness. £13.46 down from £14.95.
Zweigelt, a crossing between St. Laurent and Blaufrankisch, is Austria’s most widely planted red variety, and I drank buckets of it when I was in Vienna the other month. None of them was nearly as good as the 2020 Kracher Zweigelt Trocken (7), brand new to Corney’s list and about which they’re very excited. With rich, juicy, light-on-its-feet dark fruit, raised in old oak, it’s soft, silky and seductive. £15.26 down from £16.95.
Finally, the 2017 Roc de Cambes (8), offered at such a significant discount that it’s pretty much the same as its opening en primeur price. From François Mitjavile (of Tertre Roteboeuf fame) and his vineyard in the Côtes de Bourg, it’s Merlot-based and with its glossy, mouth-filling dark cherry fruit and long, long finish, it’s in glorious condition and more than living up to its pedigree. It’s Cru Classé-beating class in a glass at just £53.95.
The mixed case contains two bottles each of wines 1-3 and 5-7. Wines 4 and 8 are offered in boxes of six. Delivery is free for orders over £150.
Order online today or download an order form.
To find out more about our Winemaker Lunches, Masterclasses and Wine Tours, visit spectator.co.uk/tastings.
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