Oh dear, it all got a bit out of hand. The wines for this all-Tuscan offer from Mr Wheeler looked so deliciously appealing that rather than taste and write them up on my own, I thought it would be a brilliant wheeze to sample them with guests over Sunday lunch. ‘You twit,’ said Mrs Ray. ‘They’re a bunch of lushes. They’ll drain the lot and never leave.’
‘But they’ll be such a help,’ I said. ‘They know and love their wines and it’ll be fun.’
Well, we were both right. They did indeed drain the lot and didn’t leave until supper, but they were a huge help, knowledgeable and focused. Well, focused until they moved from sweet wine to single malt and then tore into my magnum of kummel.
It helped, of course, that Mr Wheeler’s selection from the Bindi Sergadi family – winemakers in Siena since 1349 – was so darn tasty. There are three estates in the portfolio – I Colli and Mocenni in Chianti Classico and Marcianella in Montepulciano – all overseen by 23rd generation Alessandra Casini Bindi Sergadi and all represented here.
The 2022 I Colli ‘Bindo’ IGT Toscana Bianco (1), a blend of Chardonnay, Malvasia and Trebbiano, is light, fresh and appealing. The perfect aperitif, it also went perfectly with my signature ‘salmon three ways’ starter (homemade gravadlax, potted salmon and smoked salmon pâté, since you ask). ‘Ooh, is there any more?’ asked Jeni. £13.75 down from £14.95.
The 2022 I Colli ‘Achille’ IGT Toscana Rosso (2) is a juicy, brambly blend of Sangiovese and Merlot, vinified and aged in stainless steel for freshness, with just a touch of old oak at the end for texture. With its welcoming ripe, sweet fruit and soft tannins, Toine thought it the perfect house wine, with no need to spend more. £13.75 down from £14.95.
The 100 per cent Sangiovese 2021 I Colli ‘Nicolò’ Governo IGT Toscana Rosso (3), made from grapes laid out to dry in the sun, is deliciously floral and appealing on the nose, with juicy red fruit in the mouth. Drunk on its own between courses, it was an easy-going delight. £16.50 down from £17.95.
We all loved the hints of cassis and the liquorice/beef tea intensity
The 2021 I Colli ‘Ser Gardo’ Chianti Classico DOCG (4) is also made entirely from Sangiovese, in this instance aged in large oak barrels after full malolactic fermentation. A spell in bottle adds a touch of refinement to the luscious, cherry-rich fruit and it was an ideal match for Mrs Ray’s fabled herb and mushroom risotto. £18.75 down from £19.95.
The 2020 Marcianella Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG (5), also from Sangiovese, of course, was aged for 18 months in oak and six months in bottle before release, and is absolutely singing. With spicy dark fruit, olives and truffles cloaked in silky tannins, it too slipped down beautifully alongside the risotto. £21 down from £22.95.
The 2020 I Colli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (6) is quintessential Chianti Classico Riserva at a very cheering price. Produced from 20-year-old vines, it has depth, weight and character and merits its 93 points from critic James Suckling. Mike liked its hints of wild cherries. £22.50 down from £24.95.
The 2018 Mocenni 89 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG (7) was a huge hit, especially with Jeni who, after a French 75 (and four glasses of red) declared that she didn’t drink red wine but loved this. And it is indeed a beauty, with vibrant red and dark fruit, forest floor notes, elegant tannins and that lively Sangiovese acidity. £39.50 down from £42.50.
The 2021 Mocenni 91 Cabernet Sauvignon IGT Toscana (8) made just from Cabernet Sauvignon bridged the gap between risotto and cheeseboard perfectly. Gary was very pleased with his ‘forward on the palate with good spicy notes’ comment, repeating it to anyone who would listen. And we all loved the hints of cassis and the liquorice/beef tea intensity. A glorious wine, it’ll age for yonks. £39.50 down from £42.50.
The mixed case has two bottles each of wines 1-6. Wines 7 & 8 are available in wooden boxes of six. Delivery, as ever, is free.
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