Ring out the bells, hang out the bunting! Drop whatever you’re doing and pay attention! It’s that time of year again, marked in red on wine-loving readers’ calendars: our annual offer of declassified or so-called ‘defrocked’ clarets from our canny chums at FromVineyardsDirect.
You know the form but I’m going to remind you anyway, as I’d hate you to miss out. Outlined below are six cracking clarets from two cracking vintages – 2022 and 2023 – plus one gorgeous Sauternes, all from the greatest of Bordeaux estates. As I’ve explained before, these wines are the excess production or the wines made from younger vines that don’t suit the estates’ grands vins.
They’re made in the same cellars as the grands vins, by the same winemaking teams, with the same love, care and devotion and share the same impeccable pedigree. No, they don’t quite have the same finesse, polish and elegance as the grands vins – but nor are they nearly as costly, in some cases being a twentieth of the price.
The châteaux are extremely touchy about being identified and FVD are annoyingly – but understandably – tight-lipped too. I’ve managed to work out all but one of the wines’ origins, though, and, being shrewd Spectator readers, I’m sure you’ll be able to work out from whence they come.
The 2023 Pessac-Léognan (1) is new to the ‘defrocked’ line up, from a great estate created after a long-forgotten 16th-century baron’s humiliations. Deep dark red, with robust red and black fruit on the nose and touches of cedarwood and spice, it’s full and brooding in the mouth, with hearty blackcurrant fruit, a touch of pepper, noticeable tannin and a teasingly savoury finish. Double decant and enjoy with the Sunday roast. £20.95 down from £22.95.
The garnet-red 2023 Saint-Estèphe (2), with its aromas of bramble/cassis fruit and bottled ink, has been my only new treat, really, over several evenings. It has weight and character of course, but it’s surprisingly light on its feet for a Saint-Estèphe, and although there are tannins, along with the commune’s signature earthiness, it’s delightfully fresh and ripe. £21.95 down from £23.95.
The 2022 Saint-Émilion (3) is always urgently sought out nearly everywhere. I didn’t get much on the nose at first but a swirl or two soon released the bright
cherry/damson/plum aromas, heralding rich, ripe fruit compote in the mouth. The tannins eased off as I worked my way down the bottle where I found nothing but pleasure. £22.95 down from £24.95.
The 2023 Margaux (4), with fragrant notes of azaleas rung dry after the rain, is serious fare. Early hints of redcurrants give way to blackcurrants and blackberries, all soft, juicy and smooth. This is a class act and can only get classier as it matures. £25.95 down from £27.95.
The 2022 Pauillac (5) looks a fine investment to everyone although it was, of course, made to be drunk not just tucked away in the cellar. Yes, it still needs time fully to express itself, but it’s excellent drinking already with typical Pauillac cedarwood, cigar box and spice in the glass and lush, plush blackcurrant fruit in the mouth. £25.95 down from £27.95.
The 2022 Pomerol (6) is also new to the ‘defrocked’ range and the only estate I’ve not managed to identify. With vanilla, fresh and stewed plums, spice and, gosh, even a touch of dark chocolate, on the nose it’s delectably easy-going; in the mouth, all succulence and fine acidity. My pick of the ‘defrocked’ pops. £27.95 down from £29.95.
Finally, the 2016 Sauternes (7), which we’ve offered in the same vintage before to great delight, and which is even better now with its extra bottle age. With fresh, inimitable, lightly honeyed, orangey tastiness, it’s in formidable condition, with apricots, confit orange, barley sugar in the mix. It’s a beauty, lighter and less oily than the grand vin and none the worse for that. Don’t bother with pudding or cheese; enjoy it on its own, fresh from the fridge. £14.95 down from £16.95 per half bottle.
The mixed case has two bottles each of wines 1-6 and wine 7 (half bottles) is offered in unmixed dozens. Delivery, as ever, is free.
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To find out more about our Winemaker lunches, masterclasses and wine tours, visit spectator.co.uk/tastings.
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