So that’s another term done at the Spectator Wine School. And what a term! We had such a fine teacher – take a bow Mrs Taylor, Head of Vinous Studies, on loan from Private Cellar – and such bright pupils that everyone passed.
Not only did our conscientious students pull their weight in class, eschewing the spittoons (I’m sending the damn things back, they were a foolish purchase), many continued their oenological discussions in The Two Chairmen after school. Their diligence and dedication quite brought a tear to my eye.
Our most popular class was that of Alternatives to the Classics, which featured such tasty wines that Laura Taylor and I decided to offer some here to the wider readership.
The 2020 Domaine Dyckerhoff Reuilly Tradition (1) was a massive hit. Pure Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley, it’s a brilliant, well-priced alternative to better-known Sancerre or Pouilly Fumé. Fresh, creamy, grassy, herbal, citrusy and with a dry to off-dry finish, it’s impeccably made. £14.85 down from £15.95.
With white wine accounting for barely 1 per cent of production in Beaujolais, the 2019 Domaine des Combiers Beaujolais Villages les Bruyères Blanc (2) is a rarity. Made from old vine Chardonnay by the fabled Laurent Savoye, it’s full of zesty citrus and ripe pears and is elegant and stylish enough to pass for far pricier Côtes de Beaune. £14.95 down from £16.25.
The 2020 Springfontein Terroir Selection Chenin Blanc (3) from Walker Bay, South Africa, will appeal to lovers of fine Vouvray. Made from Chenin Blanc fermented partly in old barriques and partly in egg-shaped vessels, it’s lively with touches of peach, apple and citrus. £16.95 down from £18.25.
The 2019 Bodegas Pinuaga Nature (4) from Spain’s Tierra de Castilla is simple but delicious. It’s made from organic Tempranillo grown high in the hills and has an exhilarating freshness. If it came from Ribera del Duero, say, you could pay another fiver at least. £12.50 down from £13.90.
The 2018 Farmer’s Leap ‘Random Shot’ Shiraz (5) from Padthaway, Australia, is big, bold and fruity. It might not have the subtlety of fine northern Rhône Syrah, but it certainly has vivacity and brio. The tannins are soft, the finish is long and the glass is soon empty. £14.80 down from £15.90.
The 2020 Rocche Costamagna Nebbiolo Langhe Roccardo (6) from NW Italy had the class purring with pleasure, not only over the soft, spicy, liquorice, tarry, smoky flavours but also over the excellent price compared with that of mighty Barolo and Barbaresco. Although still a baby, it’s more than ready and will charm and delight you. £16.90 down from £17.75.
As the bell went and Mrs T collected papers for marking, she let slip that Private Cellar have a few cases left of the sublime 2021 Hamilton Russell Chardonnay (7) and 2021 Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir (8). From South Africa’s Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, these are two of my desert island wines and I begged her to include them as an add-on.
Anthony and Olive HR are longtime subscribers to The Spectator and have hosted many a Spectator Winemaker Lunch – and their wines are exceptional. Exquisite in their own right, both wines are perfect for those who seek tip-top Burgundy but struggle to find 1er Cru level at great prices. Oh, and did I say that only this week was the Chardonnay named Chardonnay of the Year and awarded five stars in 2023 Platter’s by Diners Club South African Wine Guide? £216 and £234 per six respectively.
The mixed case has two bottles each of wines 1-6 and the Hamilton Russell wines are available in unmixed sixes. Delivery, as ever, is free.
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