Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Wine Club: Private Cellar’s masterclass in alternatives to the classics 

issue 26 November 2022

So that’s another term done at the Spectator Wine School. And what a term! We had such a fine teacher – take a bow Mrs Taylor, Head of Vinous Studies, on loan from Private Cellar – and such bright pupils that everyone passed.

Not only did our conscientious students pull their weight in class, eschewing the spittoons (I’m sending the damn things back, they were a foolish purchase), many continued their oenological discussions in The Two Chairmen after school. Their diligence and dedication quite brought a tear to my eye.

Our most popular class was that of Alternatives to the Classics, which featured such tasty wines that Laura Taylor and I decided to offer some here to the wider readership.

The 2020 Domaine Dyckerhoff Reuilly Tradition (1) was a massive hit. Pure Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley, it’s a brilliant, well-priced alternative to better-known Sancerre or Pouilly Fumé. Fresh, creamy, grassy, herbal, citrusy and with a dry to off-dry finish, it’s impeccably made. £14.85 down from £15.95.

With white wine accounting for barely 1 per cent of production in Beaujolais, the 2019 Domaine des Combiers Beaujolais Villages les Bruyères Blanc (2) is a rarity. Made from old vine Chardonnay by the fabled Laurent Savoye, it’s full of zesty citrus and ripe pears and is elegant and stylish enough to pass for far pricier Côtes de Beaune. £14.95 down from £16.25.

The 2020 Springfontein Terroir Selection Chenin Blanc (3) from Walker Bay, South Africa, will appeal to lovers of fine Vouvray. Made from Chenin Blanc fermented partly in old barriques and partly in egg-shaped vessels, it’s lively with touches of peach, apple and citrus. £16.95 down from £18.25.

The 2019 Bodegas Pinuaga Nature (4) from Spain’s Tierra de Castilla is simple but delicious.

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