I happily did my bit for Blighty during the coronation and drank nothing but English wine, beer and spirits the whole weekend. If I was guilty of slightly over-egging the pudding it was only through an excessive bout of patriotism and I can report with pride that even my much-needed hangover cure – The Original Pick-Me-Up from D. R. Harris & Co – was English made.
Once off the naughty step and given reluctant permission by Mrs Ray to resume active service, I moved straight from the vinous delights of Kent and Sussex to those of Burgundy, courtesy of Honest Grapes and Albert Bichot. Founded in Beaune in 1831, Albert Bichot is the leading buyer at the Hospices de Beaune auction and one of the region’s largest producers, with more than 150 different wines on its list. Most are organic and all are made with the love, care and attention to detail that befits a thriving family-owned firm. I think you will enjoy the following bottles.
The 2022 Albert Bichot Bourgogne Aligoté (1) is a very tasty example of an oft-maligned grape, once notorious for making lean, mean, teeth-strippingly acidic wines only made palatable by the addition of a hefty slug of crème de cassis. This canny ploy was dreamt up by one Félix Kir, Catholic priest, Resistance fighter, long-time mayor of Dijon, wine lover and all-round good egg, and it’s after him the resultant drink is named. No need to adulterate this Aligoté, though, because as well as being bone dry, it’s light, fresh and invigorating and makes a great standalone aperitif. £15.80 down from £16.80.
The 2022 Albert Bichot Mâcon-Villages (2) is more typical fare, being 100 per cent Chardonnay. Fermented partly in stainless steel (for freshness) and partly in old oak (for texture), the blend is aged in barrel for eight months. The delicious result is a lightly honeyed, apple/melon-fresh wine with a long dry finish. It’s not as cheap as it once was but, with Burgundy prices having recently gone through the roof, remains decent value. £17.60 down from £18.60.
The 2021 Albert Bichot Petit-Chablis (3) tastes exactly how it should. Made from grapes harvested in vineyards in the north and north-west of Chablis, it’s fermented and aged on its lees in stainless steel and – full of crunchy apple and zingy citrus – is fresh, lively and bone dry with just the faintest hint of honey. It’s textbook Petit-Chablis. £20.10 down from £21.10.
The 2021 Horizon de Bichot Pinot Noir (4), a Vin de France produced from various vineyards in Limoux in the Languedoc, is simple fare but thoroughly enjoyable nonetheless. 100 per cent Pinot Noir, it’s bright, fresh, easygoing with notes of cherry and raspberry and just a hint of spice. Bottled under screwcap, it’s a great picnic wine and doesn’t mind being chilled. £15.20 down from £16.20.
The 2020 Albert Bichot Bourgogne Passetoutgrain (5) is a style/type of wine I’ve long enjoyed, a quirk of Burgundy whereby Pinot Noir is blended with Gamay to give an undemanding, early-drinking vin de soif. The Pinot gives style and elegance and the Gamay gives freshness and juicy fruit. The result – as here, in the hands of the 2017 International Wine Challenge Red Winemaker of the Year – is extremely affable. Crammed with succulent bramble fruit and few tannins, it just begs to be knocked back. £17.80 down from £18.80.
Finally, the 2020 Albert Bichot Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune (6) which is much more serious and grown-up. There’s plenty of black and red fruit on nose and palate, a fine acidity and a gratifying touch of earthiness and savouriness on the finish. A quality red Burgundy for the Sunday roast. £24.50 down from £25.50.
The mixed case has two bottles of each wine and delivery, as ever, is free.
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