Mrs Ray is worried. Although she’s finally accepted that I drink too much when I’m out and about or at home with company, she’s fretting that I drink too much tout seul.
Some misguided saps regard drinking on one’s own as the start of a very slippery slope, but I believe it to be one of life’s greatest pleasures. You can drink what you want, when you want, in whatever quantity or combination you want; you don’t have to defend your choices or field complaints that you’re serving white with meat or red with fish, and you can enjoy a ruminative glass or so undisturbed as you ponder life’s mysteries.
Only last night, when Mrs Ray was away, I had an uplifting Manzanilla as I finished work, a soothing glass of Alsace Pinot Gris as I cooked, a bottle of Rioja Reserva with the resulting lamb chops, crushed potatoes and leeks, and a modest Delamain XO as I pottered upstairs. What’s not to like?
Anyway, recognising Mrs R’s concerns, rather than tasting the wines for this selection on my tod and draining the bottles, I corralled her, our niece Ava – newly accepted into Oxford and well up for a drink – and our thirstiest neighbours, Mike and Bibi, to help.
With wines of the Loire such as Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé and even Menetou-Salon getting ever pricier, the 2024 Domaine Bellevue Sauvignon de Touraine (1) is astonishing value. 100 per cent Sauvignon Blanc – like the above – it’s made by Patrick Vauvy at his family domaine on the banks of the Cher. Picked late, it has character, freshness and elegance. Mike liked its gentle gooseberry notes, Ava liked its yuzu zestiness and Bibi, well, just liked it, swerving the spittoon and diving straight in for a second, confirmatory glass. £11.75 down from £12.95.
The 2024 Mas Carlot ‘Générations’ Blanc (2), from the Costières de Nîmes in the southern Rhône, has appeared in these pages in previous vintages so often simply because I love it. And I’m not alone: it’s one of FVD’s top sellers. Made by Nathalie Blanc-Marès (whose father, Paul-Antoine, owned fabled Au Pied du Cochon in Paris), it’s a glorious blend of three of my favourite grapes: Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier. I relish its peachy freshness, Mike enjoyed its ‘will o’ the wisp creaminess’ and Mrs R and Bibi liked its smokiness. Ava spotted some spicy lychee and had another gulp to make sure. £12.45 down from £13.95.
Paul and Mallory Talmard’s Mâcon-Uchizy is FVD’s best-selling wine by miles and, with demand outstripping supply, they asked P&M to come up with a similar cuvée to fill the gap, hence the 2024 Domaine Talmard Mâcon-Chardonnay (3). Made from Chardonnay grown around the village of, erm, Chardonnay, it’s fresh, bright and creamy with touches of lemon zest. ‘Ooh, yes,’ purred Bibi, lobbing in an ice cube and settling down for the evening. ‘I could get used to this.’ £13.95 down from £15.45.
The 2024 Domaine Les Grands Bois Viognier (4) is the latest vintage of another great favourite of mine (and one of yours too, it seems, as it always sells out when we offer it). Ava liked its warming feeling and Mrs Ray detected a complex mix of peach, apricot and ripe banana. Mike declared it the vinous equivalent of a well-made Negroni (I’m still working that one out), adding that it was ‘drinking very well’ (a bit of ‘wine-speak’ with which he was very chuffed). ‘Yep, that hits the spot,’ murmured Bibi. £14.45 down from £15.95.
Finally, the current vintage of one of the tastiest, best-value, traditional method fizzes around, the 2020 Crémant de Bourgogne ‘Cuvée Millésimée’ Brut (5). Made by the celebrated Cave de Lugny cooperative in southern Burgundy, it’s a classic blend of 80 per cent Chardonnay and 20 per cent Pinot Noir, part oak-aged, with a dosage of 10g per litre. Fresh, nutty, honeyed, lemony, creamy and toasty, it got a resolute thumbs up from my panel, especially from Mike who usually finds champagne too acidic but gave this 10/10. £16.50 down from £17.95.
The mixed case (6) contains three bottles each of wines 1-4 and wine 5 is offered in unmixed boxes of six. Delivery, as ever, is free.
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To find out more about our Winemaker lunches, masterclasses and wine tours, visit spectator.co.uk/tastings.
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